Re: Recent rolling road monster thread

[Warren]

Hi All

I must have read the recent rolling road thread that went on an on numerous times, found it really interesting but it's stopped. What's happening, where are the times for the M5 and the other Cobra that was been loaned the Racetek.

Having had the misfortune to break down 3 times in my first 500 miles and now lunched the gearbox I am going to upgrade things a bit as the engine has to come out anyway.

I am thinking along the line of keeping the top end as it is and stroking the motor, has anyone got a stroker with the Edelbrock heads?

My original build was based on a target of 350BHP and a shopping list from Repower to get there. I would now like to get to 450 with a stroker and any advice on getting there would be useful. Obviously I am talking to Repower and a local firm called Performance Unlimited, anyone used them?, but insight into the running/driving or additional comments are always useful.

Based on previous advice, I will be ditching the standard flywheel and bellhousing.

Cheers
Warren

[Clarkson]

Hi Still waiting for the race tech, if I get it I will post up the figures.

I don't think you will get 450hp with edelbrock heads! You maybe best to sell your motor and build a better one.

I think your better off sticking with what you got, cause driving a real 450 motor is not nice on local roads. The one and only time I have really loved my
motor and that was on the track at LeMans and coming home with empty roads!!

What cam have you got fitted?? Whats the other spec of motor.

[Warren]

Hi

As I mentioned I originally asked Repower what I needed to get to 350BHP and this was the list, more or less.

I had the block decked, bored +30 & Line bored
Keith Black Flat Top Hypertechtic Pistons
High Press Oil Pump
Edelbrock Heads, I think these are 64cc
Roller Rockers
Uprated pushrods
ARP bolts
Torker II inlet Manifold
The Cam is a SpeedPro, I think it's a 3000, good idle at 800, power really coming in around 4,000 and revs to 6,000 before I chicken out (I was advised to rev to 5,000 only on the forum with a standard flywheel)
The Carb at the moment is a 600CFM Holley
The whole lot was balanced by EDA before rebuilding and the standard con rods where changed to I Beams due to finding a couple of bent ones.

This is what it says on the web about the cam """PRO 3000
210° - 225° duration at .050"
Fair idle with some lope. Excellent mid-range torque for every day street performance, mild bracket racing, RV and light towing. A slightly modified engine is suggested with a performance intake manifold, 4 barrel carburetor and headers. Gears 3.70:1 or lower recommended. Power range 2000 - 4800 RPM. Cruise/torque range 2400 - 3200. Compression ration 10.3:1 or less. Computer compatible in larger engines with cams of 220 duration or less. Mild porting can be beneficial with these cams."""" But mine seems to really sing 4000 and onward.

I was kinda hoping it would be a simple task on changing the crank. If not then I need a rethink, I wonder what my engine would be worth to someone, I know what it cost to build!!!!

Warren

[wilf]

Warren - with a stroker, you have to rethink most things.

Essentially the engine will want more air, so better breathing heads, inlet and exhaust manifolds are a start.

Which Edlebrock heads do you have? If they are performers, then you need to go to Vic Jnrs, although these days I would use AFRs.

Forged bottom end to let you run to 6000 (with a billet flywheel, of course).

I think that at 408cu in and above, 450hp is a realistic target, if you get a good match between CR/breathing ability/cam. After all, we are only talking about less than 70BHP per litre!

I guess what I am getting around to is - if you want a stroker engine, you need to start with one. Sorry.

[Warren]

Hi Wilf

Yup, I think they were performers.

So, what's it worth then, like I said the design breif was to get to 350bhp, it has all the usual chrome rocker covers, dipstick, kicked out sump for ground clearance(orange), it was all new including timing gear, chrome timing gear cover, new damper, new chrome pulleys, I had the flywheel face machined to take out a slight grove, clutch all brand new. The only bits, engine wise, used from the original engine are block and crank!

And it's done 505 miles, at the moment.

I really don't want to go through the build process again, I suppose I could spec a short engine and go from there with heads etc. A crate is tempting but I read about Kevs misfortune the other week.

Suppose I could just upgrade the flywheel etc and bung a nitrous kit on it.......

Cheers
Warren

[wilf]

Nitrous? Not with those pistons, I am afraid. Really you need forged slugs to cope with blowers/nitrous, although I am sure someone will come along now and contradict me.....

As to what it is worth - only what someone will give you, and I suspect that will be a lot less than what it cost you. Try pricing a similar engine up from an established UK supplier, and then knock 15 - 20% off. At least that is a starting point for you.

[Warren]

You're just full of good news today Wilf........crate engine is looking ever more tempting

http://www.pro-formanceunlimited.com...3_420cefi.html

I suppose I could rob a bank, I'm not sure I want to go through the whole process of engine removal to sort the gearbox only to have to do it again later when I can afford to do the engine...I'm getting a bit browned off with this already.

Warren

[kayjayd]

Warren,

Why do you need to lift the engine out to swap the box. Easy enough job to do without touching the motor.

[robert]

I have the same connundrum as I picked up my engine from the wreckage of my little incident the other day.

Started striping it and the crank is a wee bit knackered so onto plan B.

I am looking for a driveable 450hp as a starting point, and after speaking to Ken at EDA for a bit of good old fashioned advice and discussing 377, 383 etc, we dediced on a 383 combination.

I have Edelbrock heads, 4 bolt mains, and some other nice goodies in the engine, all of which are salvageable other than the crank and some other bits I would have replaced anyway.

Decent comp ratio and a reasonable cam can get a comfortable 420ish hp with bags of torque. Dry sumping can add approximately 30 to 40 hp, so a good 383 with a dry sump will give you a good 450+hp, which is driveable on the road. :thumb:

[Warren]

Originally Posted by kayjayd

Warren,

Why do you need to lift the engine out to swap the box. Easy enough job to do without touching the motor.

Hi Kev

Basically I am buggered if I am going to refit a Getrag that 'might' last and the upgrade to anything else will require new bell housing and billet flywheel. This will need dialing in and I doubt that this could be done with the engine in situ.

Even if I was going to stick a Getrag back in I would have to dial in the bell housing just to check that this wasn't the cause of the failure this time.

Cheers
Warren