Breaking in cam

[colinb]

After reading Mr Jones letter about thr possibility of the cam not being run in,
I think it would be interesting to have the correct proceedure of doing this to a new engine, as if only for one's self.

Colinb

[wilf]

Colinb - first use the search function, and that will let you generate some good questions.

[colinb]

:thumb: Ok Wilf, done the search and there are some interesting stories but there still is not the laid down expert reported view of proffesional engineers in how to do it, perhaps this is why so many engine go pop squeak.
P.S. sorry to bore you with my questions.
Colinb

[Clarkson]

Originally Posted by colinb

:thumb: Ok Wilf, done the search and there are some interesting stories but there still is not the laid down expert reported view of proffesional engineers in how to do it, perhaps this is why so many engine go pop squeak.
P.S. sorry to bore you with my questions.
Colinb

Read the cam card! min 2500rpm variable for 25mins.

[Ricky]

Originally Posted by d clarkson

Read the cam card! min 2500rpm variable for 25mins.

Using light oil, change after :thumb:

[wilf]

Ok - basics are:

1: Engine must start right up, no prolonged cranking on the starter, and go immediately to at least 1800rpm.

2: revs must be varied between 1500 and 2500 - 3500 for 20 minutes. Don't let the engine idle.

3: Avoid stopping and re-starting if at all possible.

4: This is a severe test of cooling systems - have large fan blowing into rad, keep a cold water hose ready to play over the rad if temps start to rise uncontrollably (so do this outside of the garage)

5: Because of the above, check, double check, and triple check ALL engine systems before you start. Have a fire extinguisher or two ready.

6: again because of 4 - ensure ignintion timing is set "good enough" for the engine to run, timing can be adjusted during the cam break in period if needed.

7: again because of 4 - prime the oil system by pulling the distributor and using a special tool in a leccy drill to turn the oil pump (NB - drill will need to run in reverse) before starting the engine.

And no, your questions do not bore me or us, but the search function is a very useful tool to at least help you ask the right questions.

NB - no cam break in required with roller followers. For very aggressive flat tappet cam profiles needing extreme valve spring strengths, replace the springs with light "break-in" ones before you break in the cam.

All in all, cam break in is a PITA, so if you are having your engine built for you, get the engine builder to do it, and also to dyno tune and check the egnine before you accept it.

[madjohnny]

Wilf, am I correct in saying drill in reverse is only for Fords.

Pretty sure Chevy's need to be clockwise..........I Think.

[robinj66]

Interesting - but what's the reasoning behind this procedure?

[gareth08]

Originally Posted by robinj66

Interesting - but what's the reasoning behind this procedure?

Only applies to them dodgy Chevy engines :rotfl: :drive:

[Dutch Paul]

Originally Posted by madjohnny

Wilf, am I correct in saying drill in reverse is only for Fords.

Pretty sure Chevy's need to be clockwise..........I Think.

Yes Chevy turns clockwise