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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 18-01-07, 07:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 863
Better try and start the engine - help!

As things are slowly calming down here I've decided I have got to press on and get the engine I built started (383 chevy). As there seesm to be no such thing as instructions with american kit I have a few things I need to ask, hope they aren't too stupid!

1)Is it OK to break the engine in running it without exhaust pipes, just headers?

2)Do I need earth straps on the engine (and does anyone know where to buy them on line).

3)I have a demon carb, is there a front and a back? The only ref I can find is that 'on the back of the plate there is a single vac take off point for PCV' so I guess that points to the back of the car?

4)Should I remove the electric choke or can I do this later or can I just not wire it up?

Thanks gents
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 18-01-07, 08:22 PM
Purple AK's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: East Sussex, UK.
Age: 56
Posts: 8,197
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bitsilly View Post
As things are slowly calming down here I've decided I have got to press on and get the engine I built started (383 chevy). As there seesm to be no such thing as instructions with american kit I have a few things I need to ask, hope they aren't too stupid!

1)Is it OK to break the engine in running it without exhaust pipes, just headers?

2)Do I need earth straps on the engine (and does anyone know where to buy them on line).

3)I have a demon carb, is there a front and a back? The only ref I can find is that 'on the back of the plate there is a single vac take off point for PCV' so I guess that points to the back of the car?

4)Should I remove the electric choke or can I do this later or can I just not wire it up?

Thanks gents
Hi Ed.
1. Yes there is no reason you cant break it in on headers alone. But have in mind it needs to run continuously for 20 minutes so It might upset the neighbours
2. Yes the engine does need earthing to the chassis.Any Motor Factor (even Hellfrauds) sell them.
3. Normally the choked/primary goes to the front.
4. You can remove the choke if you feel confident. If not it must be wired to ign+ otherwise it won't come OFF choke.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 18-01-07, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: West Sussex, UK.
Age: 36
Posts: 5,672
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bitsilly View Post
As things are slowly calming down here I've decided I have got to press on and get the engine I built started (383 chevy). As there seesm to be no such thing as instructions with american kit I have a few things I need to ask, hope they aren't too stupid!

1)Is it OK to break the engine in running it without exhaust pipes, just headers?

2)Do I need earth straps on the engine (and does anyone know where to buy them on line).

3)I have a demon carb, is there a front and a back? The only ref I can find is that 'on the back of the plate there is a single vac take off point for PCV' so I guess that points to the back of the car?

4)Should I remove the electric choke or can I do this later or can I just not wire it up?

Thanks gents
Is your engine fitted to the chassis?? If not I would strongly advise getting it dyno'd. That new demon carb, will over fuel your engine on std jets,and you can also brake in your cam on the dyno at the same time.:thumb:
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 18-01-07, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 345
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkson View Post
Is your engine fitted to the chassis?? If not I would strongly advise getting it dyno'd. That new demon carb, will over fuel your engine on std jets,and you can also brake in your cam on the dyno at the same time.:thumb:
Hello heed Davids advise here...that B/G Demon is WAY over jetted & will dump buckets of fuel into your...engine.. with 750's we drop 2 to 3 jets sizes front and rear and reduce pump shooter primary to # 28 ... this will get you very close..
As David says best to get your car or engine to a dyno with exhaust sniffer
to dial in the beasts fuel curve.... Cheers! my 1 pence /2 cents Dr.Dee
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 07:43 AM
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Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Another thought.
If you run it with no exhausts ans something is wrong, you will not hear any warning rattles or clunks etc until the crankshaft buries itself in the concrete of your garage floor.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 863
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Thanks Gents,
one step forward three steps back as usual but I guess it's time to get my head out of the sand on this one. It's just it looks so pretty I'm sure it will be nice to me.

It is in the chassis but easy to take out as no body work etc yet. The tremmec is attached, clutch done etc. Will this have to be removed?

With the exhaust it's chicken and egg, the greatest drawback with the Ram. I have no idea how to specify the collectors and pipes as I cannot yet say where they have to run!

Beginning to regret the Demon as it says it is set up to be OK to start the engine. It is a 650 speed.

How does an average dyno set up work, insofar as will they know what a Demon is and tell me to go home if they don't have replacement jets, or will they use their own carbs etc?

Now the long shot..does anyone know of one driveable from Cardiff. Or if I have to go long haul who? and how much?

Thanks guys, off to cry now.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 09:57 AM
Per Ardua Ad Cobra
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 558
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

[quote:fe53413b53="bitsilly;178363"]

"Beginning to regret the Demon as it says it is set up to be OK to start the engine. It is a 650 speed"

Bitsilly

Don't worry - You'll have no problems at all with the Speed Demon 650 to start the engine, I've got the same model - it runs a trifle rich but passed emissions testing. As a starting point as supplied from the factory it's fine. I agree with the comment about getting it set up properly but this could wait until cam is run in, exahausts are on etc? Barry Grant sell a rejet/spring kit so you could take this along with the car when you do the rolling road setup?

Also the noise they make when run without exhausts is unbelieveable. Short periods is bearable but the cam run in must be done for a fixed period - 20 mins or more at medium revs without stopping!

I junked the electric choke as the engine starts just fine with a couple of pumps of the pedal (even from stone cold) and I then hold it at fast tickover until it warms up (about 2 mins).

Don't get disheartened.

Good luck
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 10:32 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 863
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

'Don't get disheartened'

Cheers, I needed that!
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 10:52 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Thirsk, North Yorkshire
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Posts: 1,920
Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Mikey knows quite a bit about BG setup. PM him or he may read this thread.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 19-01-07, 11:49 AM
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Re: Better try and start the engine - help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave View Post
Another thought.
If you run it with no exhausts ans something is wrong, you will not hear any warning rattles or clunks etc until the crankshaft buries itself in the concrete of your garage floor.
Dave,

Isn't it also known as 'the China Syndrome' :rotfl:
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