Buying a DAX

[Batman]

Hi Guys

I am about to buy a Dax Cobra with a Chevy 350 with a T5.

Are there anything particular that I should look out for when inspecting the car, be aware about when doing this?


Thanks for your help

[daxv8man]

Always, always, always, check that it is registered as a Dax on the log book. You don't say what year it was made or the chassis number is, as early ones suffered from bump stear. Other than that have a look of the quality of bulid and as many bills or reciepts as you can lay your hands on. Then overal condition .

Graham

[kdavies3]

Hi Batman and welcome to the forum,
I would echo what Graham said about checking it's correctly registered or you may may be in for a heap trouble later on.
Make sure it comes with a full MOT if possible, and certainly take a test drive.
Get it on a ramp and have a good look at the build quality.
Best of Luck!!

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales

[Two greens]

...better still, agree with the seller to take it for an MOT when you do the test drive.

Good luck

Two Greens

[mikey]

If you do decide to get it and it is one of the older ones, it is worth fitting the later front suspension platforms which when set up cossectly with caster/camber makes a phenominal difference.
Mike.

[paul]

Hi there it may be worth getting the chassis No and check with Dax as there has been cars advertised as Dax's when they were not. Also they will be able to tell you what date and what Mk the chassis is and whether it would require modification to the front end.
cheers
Paul

[Miket]

Batman

If you don't know what to look for I suggest that you by one that has passed the dreaded SVA test, then you will know that it has been built correctly, or should have been.

[Batman]

Thx for all the replies

I actually ended up buying the car.

I saw the papers and it is correctly registered as a DAX.
I spoke to DAX, and they confirmed the authenticity, so it genunie allright.

After having the car for a few days, I've had some problems show up....-Bugger....

The alternator started to get a life of its own....suddenly deciding not to charge the battery..... Thank God for the voltage gauge...
I'm currently having it examined now.....

Radiator has developed a small leakage.
Can anyone tell me which radiator there is normally mounted on a DAX?
How is it removed? Up or down, it seems to be easiest to do it downwards....

I also have to go over the brakes (knew this when I bought it...), as it pulls slightly to the left when braking.
I have to adjust the handbrake cable, and also remove the rear pads I guess, as I have some scoring from the rear when braking sometimes.
Is it possible to get to the rear pads out without lowering the rear suspension from the frame?

thx

Batman

PS:
The missus is off the charts about this car, and she demands that she gets to drive it also...
Hopefully that'll make it possible to keep it for a long time....


I've attached a few pictures of the new ride....

"To the Batmobile, Let's go"..........

[kdavies3]

Hi it is possible to service the pads discs etc, with the IRS in place but its a bitch of a job.
Life's a lot easierif you drop it out, to do this you'll need to remove the tank if you have a Dax fuel tank.
I suggest cutting a window in the boot floor to access the diff top mounting bolts.
You'll need to remove the rear part of the tunnel too which means seats out.

BTW the radiator is probably an uprated Rover SD1 Vittesse, if its copper or Daxs own if its the ally one.
It's removed from the bottom.

hope this helps

[Batman]

Thx for the input!

I've now removed the radiator, -downwards was the only way.

The radiator has copper end tanks, so I guess its Rover one.

Upon going closer into the brakes, I found that the rear pads and calipers are new.
But the front dics were worn out, dics at 20 mm... (4 pots, supposed to be min 23.) Calipers got a massage, and seems to be fine for now...

The handbrake is the problem with the rear brakes, as there is not fitted any return springs on the handbrake lever arm on the calipers.
Therefore the left one didn't return proberly it seems.
Going to mount some now.

I need to remove the diff as there is way too much backlash in it.
8 mm on the circumference on the prop shaft flange into the diff.
Apparently it has been re-sealed and maybe it was a lousy job, not assembling the diff properly...

But for now I hope it'll hold up during the summer, and do it as a winter job.

Batman

PS: can you recommend a place to buy Jaguar parts at a good price?