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| Anyone, How is it best to attach the door cards to the doors? Hard board to fibreglass. The hardboard does not have any holes or slots for the usual plastic inserts/poppers. Sprocket |
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| Agree with Craig, bought some Heavy Duty Velcro from Halfords, grips like a vice?? And very neat.
__________________ Noel Sumo, BAE Chevy 4??ci /Roller cam. If all you have is a hammer.....everything starts looking like a nail Gallery: http://www.cobraclub.com/gallery/sho...63&page=0&sort= |
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| I originally put mine on with some hidden trim buttons from Halfords. Before you put the covering on the cards, tape them in position on the doors and drill a hole through both the card and the inner door skin. Put the buttons through the holes in the cards and then put the foam and leather onto the cards. Problem was that the buttons were a bit short on mine as I stapled the leather to the cards and the padding under the trim meant that they touched the bodywork inside the door openings and fell off every time I opened the doors. Halfords do a longer button with a screw inside to open it up, but due to not having enough leather to re-cover the door cards, I decided to use long stainless self tappers with a screw cup (shaped washer). The longer buttons should hold it pretty well but once you have made the holes, you will need to re-drill the hole in the door skin slightly larger. I used the smaller buttons to fix the leather behind the seats and it has stayed on no problem. |
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| Haven't got any piccys but I cut the door card, I used 5mm ply and placed it on the door with tape. Drill holes through the ply and the door together in four places each so that they lined up exactly. Then in the rear of the ply I screwed pan head screws and a little Isopon filler around the screw entry hole. Then on the fibre glass I used a Black and Decker thingy, like a dremmel, to cut key hole slots to the hole location in the fibre glass. Obviouly the pan head fits through the larger part of the key hole and the panel slides on the threaded part of the screws to the original drilled hole position with the back of the 'pan head' behind the slot. Easy to do, easy to remove, didn't want visible screw heads and couldn't be arsed waiting for the pucker clips from Europa. I do need to re-trim in leather but I was keen to get the motor on the road and couldn't afford a proffesional retrim. Hope it all makes sense Warren |
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| Hi Sprocket When trim shop did the interior I asked for fur tree clips to be fitted before the leather went on. Fit great & they did a great job. John |
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| I would have liked to use metal trim clips or such like, but unfortunately the door trims I brought from Dax were already nicely covered in leather. I would have damaged them by pulling the trim off so I had to go with something on the back. If they were a standard Dax colour I maybe could have asked for more with clips fitted but apparently they were specially made for me. I tried fixing metal clips on the back but couldn't get a strong enough fixing. Glue wouldn't hold and the panel was too thin for screws. Velcro seemed an easy and cheap way of doing the job and so far it works fine although I haven't yet had to remove the trim. There is nothing inside a Dax door anyway to require removal of the trim! Craig.
__________________ Dax Tojeiro, + 350 Chevy + Tremec box = no more money! Polishes to date = 17 |
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