Farecla polishing how to..

[DrFelch]

I just had an email from those nice peeps at Farecla, with instructions on how to cut+polish a gel coat. Might interest some poeple.....

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Preparation

When the gelcoat is fully cured you will need to flat down the repair to create a smooth surface and polish the result back to a gloss that matches the surrounding area. How you do this part of the job is very important to the final finish. To ensure that this is achieved quickly and with ease always follow the guidelines and avoid cutting corners.

Our demonstrators always start by wetting the area. The use of a spray bottle ensures that the water is always clean.

You will need a grade coarse enough to remove a fair amount of material in order to rectify the defect - 600 grit. Then use 800 grit followed by 1200 grit to remove the scratch pattern made. If you flat in straight lines with the initial grade then flat at right angles with subsequent grades, you will be able to see that the coarser scratches are removed. This will make polishing the surface much easier.

Restoring the Gloss

Now we're ready to restore the gloss. For this task you should use a rubbing compound (such as G3) which can be applied either by hand or machine.

Working by Hand

If you are working by hand it may be worth finishing with a finer grade of Wet and Dry than 1200, say 1500 or 1700. This will make life easier when removing the scratch pattern made by the abrasive paper.

As with the usage of Wet and Dry abrasive papers, water is essential when using polishing compounds. Make sure you use clean water. Never use the water out of the container used with your Wet and Dry papers as this will contain grit.

Soak your cloth in clean water which will help the cutting compounds to work quickly and more easily. Place an amount of compound on the cloth (a mutton cloth works well) and rub in straight backward and forward movements to cover that part of the gelcoat. Pressure is required to make the compound work correctly. Change directions so that every part is evenly worked.

Wipe off the compound residue to see if the scratch pattern has been removed. If not, go over again with more compound until removed. Reshape the polishing pad occasionally. Then add some more water to the cloth (a spray bottle is an effective way of introducing water) and finish off lightly in a circular motion, easing the pressure until the compound has almost gone. Wipe away any residue and restore the full gloss by buffing with a soft, clean cloth.


Working with a Polisher

Polishing machines will make the compounding application much faster and will also give a better finish. These can be hired from either a tool hire shop or possibly a boatyard. Do ensure that the machine is suitable for polishing i.e. not a grinder, as the speed required to polish is very important. Approximately 1800 RPM free running is the optimum speed but certainly no faster than 2000 RPM.

A small amount of compound is picked up on a clean cloth, the lid replaced and the work area lightly dabbed. Most people use too much. Only a little is needed to do the job; any excess flies out and has to be cleaned up afterwards.

For best results use a damp foam compounding head (Advanced G Mop). Before use soak the compounding head in clean water to ensure the water is inside the foam. Spin off the excess water in a bucket or bin. Position the foam compounding head onto the compound and gently move the machine. This action spreads the compound on both the surface and the compounding head.

Start the machine and move it steadily backwards and forwards over the gelcoat. The compounding head should be held at a slight angle to the surface; at between five and ten degrees.

When all the sanding marks have been removed and gloss begins to show through, ease off the pressure. You can add more water to the surface without any more compound to give the best gloss. Final gloss and blending in is obtained by running the machine quickly and lightly over the whole area, using the flat face of the compounding head and less pressure.

Wipe away any residue and buff with a soft, dry cloth.

On dark colours, it may be necessary to follow with an application of G10 Extra Fine Grade Liquid with an Advanced G mop Polishing Foam. The same instructions for use apply.

Protecting the surface

To protect the work you have done it would be advisable to put on a coating of wax. Protecting gelcoats and painted hull surfaces against dirt, oil and extreme climatic conditions not only enhances the appearance, but prolongs the life. A non-polymer, non-silicone wax polish is easy to apply and causes no problems should any repairs be required.

[John Chambers]

I couldnt agree more, i work in a bodyshop and have to do this process many times a day, it will work perfectly and a good finish can be acheived in very little time with a little practice, 3m also do a good finishing compound called finesse, it just gives a slightly deeper finish.

[Mike]

Perfect timing, I received my orbital poisher today and with my G3 and G10 I intend to get the car looking as good as possible. Can't afford to have it painted for a year or so.
Mike:

[DrFelch]

How much did your oribital polisher cost ? I think I might hire one, although if they were cheap enough I think it makes sense to buy one for future too...

Marcus

[TINKA]

Hi mate
I hired one for a week, but soon after I started I realised that it was going to take much more than a week to finish the job.If you go the hire root make sure that you have gone over the car thoroughly first filling in all thoes pin holes and sanding smooth and smoothing out any slight orange peel efect you might have anywhere on the body.

Martin :P :P

[Cobra289]

Hi John,
I have a question, I just have brought my Cobra to the Paint Shop and have requested to the painter for a polishing job after painting. The paint will be metallic with a clear top layer.
The painter told me that it is not a good idea because if you polish the clear coat after a time will be dull and you need to do the job again and you can run in problems after several times and in particular at the edges.
Have you some experience with this?
Is it for a clear top layer a system to make it more shining (wet effect)?
I have Turtle Wax Excalibur are there a better choice?
Regards,
Cobra289



Nobody can change your opinion!
If I can bring you to doubt, possible you will change your opinion.

[martin]

I too have just started polishing my Dax body, last night in fact, so the "how to" posting came at a perfect time. I'm using my electic drill at a slow speed, needed to make a mandrel though to suit the 14mm thread on the polishing mop. Working fairly well but with a maroon body the small scrathes do take time to remove and that's after a final rubbing down with 2000 grade wet&dry. Looks like a long job.

[PAULGD]

Yes
The info came just in time after I`ld ruined two sponges; I hadn`t realised that you need to soak the sponge first, but I must recommend you buy a polisher I paid £50 at a show but you can get them for about £70 from most good tool shops. It really takes the backache out of rubbing down by hand; and the finish is great even after the first grade and i`ve 2 to go.

Paul

[Mike]

You are welcome to borrow mine. Coupla weeks! I live in Burgess Hill. Spent some time searching the web and talking to people and although the thing was £110 it came highly recommended.
Mike

[Mike]

http://www.orbitalpolisher.com/
Mike