Advice on Engine Price please!

[garyholden]

Hi All

Help needed - not too confident about paying over the odds

Does this ad sound a good buy or is it over priced. Its going for £350-£400

Thanks in advance
Gary

"This chevrolet V8 5.7 litre engine is complete but fully dismantled. I bought this engine as it is (dismantled) about 7 years ago intending to build an ac cobra replica, alas it never happened and now I am clearing my garage.

What looks like rust inside the bores and on the block is dried up lubricant, it comes off quite easily and the entire engine is in good order.

Holley contender inlet manifold (NO CARBURETTOR), Chrome rocker covers and sump have minor pitting, reconditioned water pump with ally pulley, one cyl.head cleaned & painted the other not. Camshaft looks new. Flywheel teeth good, box contains all the springs, cam lifters, shells, pistons etc. etc. (NO starter motor, alternator or distributor).

Block number 3970010 GM32. Cyl Head numbers 333882 H243 GM6 & 333882 H308 GM4.

All you will need to rebuild is a new gasket set and appropriate tools. There are numerous dealers (Real Steel etc.) selling all the bits and tuning accessories for these fabulous engines, the sound a chevy V8 makes is music to mens ears!!!"

[Purple AK]

Sounds good to me, provided the blocks not cracked. In the worst case senario, a complete standard rebuilt kit is only $160 + import from Northern Auto Parts

[Miket]

Originally Posted by garyholden

Block number 3970010 GM32. Cyl Head numbers 333882 H243 GM6 & 333882 H308 GM4.

Sounds ok, but as Chris said, make sure the block isn't cracked, also check that it is a 350 as that casting number was also used on 1969 302's with 4 bolt main and 1969 327's with 2 bolt mains, the 350 version was fitted from 69-80 with 2 or 4 bolt mains

[crendonman]

Gary,

Chris is right as long as the block isnt cracked, £350 for a block and heads, rods and crankshaft is OK, and will give you the foundation for a good engine.

All the other bits I would personally "chuck away" and buy new (then you know exactly what you've got.

Shame its not got the dizzy at the right end though!! Still Chevvies make great boat anchors if all else fails!!

Sorry Guys!! Just couldn't resist!!!

[Miket]

David

That's one space less on the campsite at Le-Mans

[crendonman]

Mike,

Dont forget about the beer I have with your name on it!!

[garyholden]

Hi All

I've been looking around for pre 87 manual jags and found some but there are more auto's and they're cheaper.

If I bought an auto what parts could I use? Obviously the both front and rear suspension are ok, but what about the propshaft and diff?

Whats a resonable price for suspension that needs a full recon. and where can I get recon bits from.

PS. When we say pre '87. i presume thats not inclusive and what the other limit, post '74??

Thanks
Gary

[kdavies3]

If you find a 3.6 XJS it will have a 3.54 Powr Lok auto or manual.
1974 is probably a reasonable date as an early limit, although I think certain even earlier parts will still be OK but I can't guarantee that.

[garyholden]

Kev,

You've just thrown in an 'unwanted' complication - I thought I had it sussed!!

Originally Posted by kdavies3

If you find a 3.6 XJS it will have a 3.54 Powr Lok auto or manual

Where does XJS fit in then? and what "3.54 Powr Lok auto or manual" when its at home!??

Sorry for numb!

Thanks
Gary

[kdavies3]

The Jaguar XJS basically has the same suspension as the the XJ6. Completely different body but under the skin much the same as an XJ6 as regards powertrain and suspension.
If you are going to use an RV8 I recommend you use a 3.54:1 or a 3.31:1 ratio diff. The Powr Lok is basically a limited slip diff.
If you're using an American V8 a 3.31:1 is probably ideal.
The Powr Lok (LSD) is not essential especially if you don't intend on doing too many track days etc.

HTH