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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating If you are thinking of getting it powder coated make sure it is done really well or else you will be wasting your money. I have seen some chassis done this way and when you look in the corners you can see pinholes where the coating has not taken, rust will just start in all those places and you would have been better off just painting it. Surely you can get a reasonably finish with spray cans. IMHO might be the way might be worth contacting Iain as he had his chassis done :thumb:
__________________ East Midlands Area Rep Mega Squirt in and running ! Car Sprayed and looking Fab |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating I think Tinka is right, powder coat does not stay on that well, especially when the surface gets damaged by stones etc and to get a whole chassis done will be expensive. Sand blasting is definitely the way to go and then get is sprayed with a good quality primer immediatly, like the same day if possibly. Sand blasting leaves an excellent key for paint but rust will start to form on it within hours!
__________________ Cheers Myles D-W |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating I painted my chassis with POR15. This is an American product and POR stands for Paint Over Rust. You can buy it from Frost Restorers at www.frost.co.uk. This stuff goes on and will not come off. It is far better than powder coating and using normal metal paint. Cheers Lee
__________________ CHEERS LEE DAX Cobra on the road now starting the build of a Tornado GT40. This car building lark is very addicitve. |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating How much do you think it would cost to get it bead blasted? I will take heed of your powder coating advice. I am abysmally over-exhuberant with a spray can. Why use 1 can where i can you 3 instead (1 on the car two on the floor in the form of runs). Kevin
__________________ Kevin & Helen DMS Venom Viper Granada Cosworth 2.9V6 BOA SVA passed Aug 07 |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating Try www.triple-s.co.uk in Bingley. They did my last motorbike frame which was a one off steel trellis with lots of difficult nooks and crannies. They did an excellent job with a 7 day turnaround. It's been on the road now for 3 yrs inc winters and still looks as good as new (when I clean it!) |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating I would have thought about a hundred quid, depending on how complex that chassis is. About 2-3 hours work I reckon. It's just a big square tubed ladder chassis isn't it?
__________________ Cheers Myles D-W |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating I'm with RichC on this one! Powder coating, when done properly, is fantastic. I had my (complicated) RAM chassis shot blast and powder coated 5 years ago. Looks as good today as it did when I picked it up. Only cost £180 with all the sub-frames etc. Personally I wouldn't bother getting the paint brush (spray can) out. If you want a 'show' finish, they'll even hand flat it after the first coat and then apply a second on top. Russ |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating I'm with Russ here, Powdercoating is THE way to go. However, without proper preparation, it's just a waste of money, it WILL all peel off. The chassis MUST be beadblasted/shotblasted to give the powdercoating a KEY (like all good finishes) As long as it's done thoroughly and properly, you'll never get the stuff off. Beware though, some powdercoating can go dull when petrol is poured on it (or maybe it was just cheap stuff on mine) Simon |
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| Re: Shot / Beadblasting & Powerder coating powder coating is the best way to go, you could also get some paint from frost that is chip proof and will take stone chips and so on, and paint that over the bits of the chassis that will get exposed to stones. its called plasti-dip |
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