Stuck Clutch

[Andrew Wilde]

Help me please! I tried to go for a mid-winter drive today, but came up with a bit of a problem and I'm hoping someone on here knows the answer...

The clutch has stuck, and doesn't disengage when I press down the pedal. I've tried putting it in gear and starting it, with no success. Then tried hand-braking while the clutch is down, with similar success. I've done both of these in 1st and reverse. Then I tried handbrake and braking hard, dragging the front wheels backwards. To no avail.

Is there an easy way out of this (please say yes!) or is it gearbox & clutch out? If so I'm screwed as where it's being kept there's no power or light, and no tow point on the car to move it...

The car is a RAM, 350ci Chevy, with a Toyota Supra gearbox. It hasn't been driven since about August (remiss of me I know, but work has been hell...)

[Keith S]

Try this, somehow wedge a bit of wood to hold the clutch pedal down and leave it overnight.
This has been known to work before although I've never had to do it myself.

[mylesdw]

Put the rear securely on axle stands. Start in 3rd or 4th gear. Press hard on all three pedals simultaneously.

[Cobra289]

Perhaps you can open the bottom part of the bell house and try to use and screw driver at the same time some one push the pedal.
It will be better is you run the car for a while till it get hot that will help.
Humidity at the garage (in not frequent drive cars) is one of the most problem makers of our hobby.
Regards,
Cobra289

[kdavies3]

Starting it in gear with the handbrake on and clutch depressed usually does it, I know you already did that. :thumb:
But make sure the engine is fully hot first as the heat soak through to the flywheel will help. :thumb:

[RallySnake]

Andrew,

That's a neat trick matching the Toyota gearbox to the SBC! It sounds like the engineering is not quite complete, however. Are you using a cable to activate the clutch or a hydraulic system?

If it's a cable, it could have become frayed and may be stuck in the cable sleeve.

If it's hydraulic, did you use an external slave cylinder or one of the units that mounts internally?

If you have an external slave cylinder, does it move back and forth with the pedal operation?

If it doesn't, then the lever may be stuck on something. If it does and the lever sticking out of the bellhousing is moving too, then you have to check the throwout bearing.

Can you see into the bellhousing with a flashlight? It sounds like the throwout bearing may have come off the end of the transmission input tube. If there is a large enough hole, you may be able to re-align it with a long screwdriver. Make sure someone's holding the clutch down though. If that thing pops loose while you have a screwdriver inside, it could ruin your whole day! You're dealing with serious pressure, here.

If you have the type of hydraulic throwout bearing that mounts inside the bellhousing. Look for leaks of brake fluid. Regardless, the transmission will have to be pulled. This is a problem with the internal units. They over-extend as the clutch wears until the seals come off their mating surface. You may have to make a spacer to fit behind it so it stays within it's recommended travel specifications. You might think about converting to an external slave cylinder setup. These are so much easier to service.

I hope this helps,
Paul

[RallySnake]

Andrew,

I reread your post and rethought the problem. It sounds simpler. If you have a cable actuated system, probably the cable broke. Easy and cheap to fix.

If you have a hydraulic system, you probably have a leak. Find it and tighten the joint or replace the bad cylinder.

Paul

[JonnyT]

The old school way of dealing with this is to start the engine in neutral until it is warm. Then roll the car onto the flat (or slight downward incline if possible) and then start in 1st gear. Drive the car pressing on the brake while the clutch is depressed. It soon frees it fairly easily and it avoids straining the starter motor too much which can suffer long term damage. (Subject of course to checking the cable / fluid levels of course!

[JonnyT]

Forgot to say that the normal cause is just a dampish garage. Since I got my new garage that is attached to the house and just slightly warmer I have never had the problem. A little heater just to keep the damp out would solve the problem, and of course you can depress the clutch with a piece of wood when not in use (although that can stretch the cable)

[mylesdw]

As to causes, mine used to stick if only left for month or so. The clutch had been relined with a 'competition' material which I believe has more iron in in and so tends to rust onto the flywheel/pressure plate. I changed for a standard friction plate and the problem has never re-occurred no matter how long I leave the car.