Clutch/Brake Adjustment

[Glyn_Turner]

I have a Tremec T500 with a Repower bell housing and 3/4" billet clutch slave, the master cylinder is a GD supplied Willwood 7/8" unit. I have just connected up the hydraulics and bled clutch/brakes. As expected the clutch is quite heavy, but it starts to bite as soon as the pedal leaves the floor. As recommended by Repower I have allowed 10mm of movement between the clutch actuating arm and the slave piston to allow for wear in the clutch.

Is there any adjustment I can make at the pedal end to improve this? I have not done anything with the adjustable fork that connects to the clutch pedal.

There is also quite a lot of movement in the brake pedal before the brakes start to operate, I don't think there is any air in the system as the pedal is quite firm once the brakes start to bite, it's just that I would like the bite point to be higher up without any slack. Is this just a case of adjusting the fork mechanism on the brake pedal to take up this slack?

Best regards

Glyn

[neil still building it]

hi glyn
if you go 'adjusting thigs up ' first thing to check is that the master cylindres do actually fully return to the off position..ie make sure you don't go preloading the hydraulics in your quest for less travel,the reason being the brakes need this dwell area, to allow the fluid to come out of the cylinder you've just used to move the brake and return to the reservoir, or else you end up with a closed area of the hydraulics(called a 'hydraulic lock') and if anything gets hot it can't come 'OFF' so BIG PROBLEMS.
in the cylinder: the outer wall is basically a tube sealed one end (except for the fluid out port)and a piston the other end which squashes the fluid out down the port so you get pressure -however there is also a bleedback port which is covered by the piston as you squash the pedal and if this doesn't get uncovered on the return stroke the fluid cant escape and thats the source of the problem.....
hope this helps
NEIL