Bedding in brakes

[Robin427]

After reading a few more posts, it seems that perhaps my GD doesn't need servo assisted brakes but how can I legally bed the brakes in? If I'm intending to drive this car to SVA it would make sense to leave home with decent braking performance. I've got a space behind the garages about 50 yards long, so I could just drive up and down there a few times (hopefully not crashing it again!!)

How long do brakes normally take to bed in? They could probably use another bleed, too...

[craggle]

Hi Robin

I'm surprised that the GD dosen't use a servo. I thought all cars after 1980ish were fitted with them. My Dax has a Ford Escort (I think) servo and master cylinder combo. Combined with the large size of the jag brakes they are more than adequate for the weight of the car.

My brakes just seemed to work straight away and didn't take any time to bed in. I used all new discs and EBC Greenstuff pads with Ward re-conditioned callipers.

The Sva test will monitor the performance of the brakes i.e. balance left to right, balance front to rear. I dont think there is a test for how hard you need to press the pedal.
Before the SVA I drove my car around the village but only about 2 miles. The car was then trailered to the test and passed with only a slight imbalance with the braking effort on the front wheels.

If you have air in the system the brakes normally still work but the pedal will have a spongy feel to it rather than a firm pressure when pressed. If you have enough air in the system to allow the pedal to touch the floor then you will have no brakes!

Where abouts are you in Surrey. I'm between Horsham and Dorking.

Craig.

[paolo]

I've read that rally teams rough up the surface of the discs and pads with a bit of sandpaper to speed up the bedding in process.

On a normal car you'd be looking at around 100-150 miles to bed a set in.

[neil still building it]

hi

to best bed in your brakes ....use 40 grit 'production paper' not sand paper (it'll last longer +stay 'sharp')and criss cross the discs from the centre in one direction ,then reverse the scheme , so you have a nice DEEP criss /cross hatching on the discs use very firm pressure!!your fingers will ache- that way you know you did it hard enough!!

as for the pads TAKE THEM OUT -there's no short cut !!and criss cross less harshley than the discs to remove the 'glaze' -a build up of shiny surface .

now if you can find a quiet bit of road / or your on your way to the MOT (HONEST. officer..?)
and apply the brakes fairly firmly but short bursts so you don't get them too hot, just burnish the surfaces to mate/match them best....
as for rally teams this is roughly how they prepare 'disc /pad sets'
ie they change the lot so they know it'll work 'out of the box' so to speak.....
hope this helps
NEIL

[Robin427]

Not sure if I dare take it out for a spin on the road yet, MOT or not...

Craig, I'm just North of Gatwick... Horley

[Robin427]

Hmmm... bleeding the brakes again seemed to have a remarkable effect on the performance... Managed to hit 20mph and screech to a halt from there...

[RichardG]

Air bad, stop good, garage wall closer than you thought

[Pictus]

what pads do you have robin if you have green stuff they should have the brown stuff that scores the brake disc surface and beds in the pads or are you using normal pads if so they will take a few mile to bed in

Warren

[craigh]

perhaps an extra long drive to the sva station is needed just to be sure

[neil still building it]

hi robin

whenever you bleed ANY brakes be sure to push the pistons fully home(ie into their bores as far a possible...)this means no gap for the air to get caught so less time doin' bleedin' brakes..!if necessary wedge between the pads and pistons, carefully of course (miss those dust seals now!!) a screwdriver is fine if your as careful as me or a thin wedge of wood if you're a clumsy bu--er
good bleedin' luck...
NEIL