Where to buy the brake lines

[cliffords]

Next job is the fuel and brake lines.
I need the buy the brake line , all the unions and a flaring tool.
I have the AK list of all the components and unions needed.
Where do people recommend I buy this little lot ?

Also fuel line, is it permissible (SVA) to use the same flexible hose all the way thorough, many seem to have a solid center section however to me this just seems more connections to possibly leak ?

Thanks

[Clive]

Hi David, any motor factor should be able to supply the neccessary brake fittings etc. I would reccomend copper - nikel brake pipe as it will not rust and is more durable than copper. Watch what unions you get as there are both metric and imperial depending on what callipers/cylinders you are using. As for fuel lines reinforced flexible lines are OK. Try BGC Motorsport in Norfolk (sales@bgcmotorsport.co.uk) tel 01945 466690 for a fast friendly service.
Clive.

[Miket]

David

You can get everthing you need from these guys.

www.automec.co.uk

I can't see why you couldn't use flexible fuel line all the way, the only problem is that it could be more suseptible to getting damage or holed with road debris than copper.

IMHO I would go for copper all the way with flexible connections to tank, fuel pump and carb.

[Robin427]

I bought a roll of brake line off eBay - still have loads left if you want to take it off my hands

[TonyD]

First of all I mocked up the brake pipe lines with string taped to the chassis. This meant that I got the lines routed correctly and the exact lengths I needed.

Secondly I stuck a bit of masking tape to each end of the string with the type of fitting required on that end of the pipe.

Thirdly I took all the pieces of string with labels attached to the motor factors and asked him to make two sets of pipes ( for the two Lexi Cobras) exactly as depicted with the string.

Two complete sets of brake pipes and 4 three way adaptors £24.00.......

At that price its not worth making your brake pipes yourself. ( I then blotted my economic copybook by ordering some very expensive braided remote caliper bleed assemblies, however they look good and work perfectly.)

Cheers,

Tony

[cliffords]

Think I have sorted the brake lines out now from your suggestions.

Can someone tell me what size flexible I need from the fuel tank for fuel hose.
Has an SVA expert got an opinion on if flexible all the way through is ok or does it have to have a solid section ?

Thanks

[rich]

Hi David,

Either rubber all the way or rigid center section will do for SVA, but i think its fair to say most people go for ridged in the middle.
One thing to watch out for, is the inspector will be looking for 'fuel pipe' markings on the rubber sections so use the right type.

If you go for copper ,then go down to BQ/ plumbers merchants and get 10mm copper tube, special clips are available from Merlin, Europa CBS etc.

The rubber pipe needs to be 3/8"
clip it every 10" and you will be fine, you will need to make a plate to fix to the underside of the diff to protect the pipe as it passes under.

HTH Rich

[kayjayd]

Originally Posted by AK Rich

you will need to make a plate to fix to the underside of the diff to protect the pipe as it passes under.

Rich (or anyone else) - I'm at the same stage as David so I wondered have you got a pic of a diff protector plate or it obvious what shape/size it is when you come round to doing it?

[rich]

hi kev,
all you need is something like a 12" square flat plate and fasten it via the four small threaded holes in the bottom of your diff, you could always use the original plate that came off if you have saved it.

The fuel pipe will then get sandwiched between the gap that occurs from diff to plate.



Rich

P.S. hows the Qjacks coming along, did my scan help any?

[kayjayd]

Originally Posted by AK Rich

hi kev,
all you need is something like a 12" square flat plate and fasten it via the four small threaded holes in the bottom of your diff, you could always use the original plate that came off if you have saved it.

The fuel pipe will then get sandwiched between the gap that occurs from diff to plate.



Rich

P.S. hows the Qjacks coming along, did my scan help any?

Thanks for the diff plate advice mate !

Errrr - the quick jacks. I must admit I hadn't read your last posting on the subject. Just went back and searched for it. That scan is the dogs nadgers and IS EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you very much, it'll help massively.

I've got my mate lined up to CNC them out of stainless but I was going to guess the difference in front and rear dimensions.

I'll post some pics when I get them finished and all shiny. Have you got pics of what they look like on your car?

THANKS !!!