Thats broken it!!! HELP

[MrFawlty]

Have just posted this under Sumo questions but should have put it here

Hi all,

Well,after finally getting some time to fit my new edelbrock manifold(pilgrim sumo,RVwent to torque the bolts and one sheared ARGH!!!
So the question is what do I do now.I have heard of a tool that screws in anti-clocwise and draws the stud out,is this the best route to go or is there anything else.
Please don"t tell me the engine has to come out
Also I have noticed the carb will not be level,engine too low or gearbox too high,seems like I need a levelling plate but I don"t think other builders have had to do this,

I feel like throwing the cover over the thing for a few months

Thanks
Steve

[MrFawlty]

Hi again,

Forgot to say I bought the bolts from a "bolt shop!" and I wonder if they are the correct ones,were they too soft
Is there a particular type for this application

Steve

[nearly thers]

The tool you are talking about is an "easiout". It requires the stud to be drilled and then you screw the easiout in in an anticlockwise direction where it bites into the old stud and unscrews it.

The secret with an easiout is to drill the correct size hole in the stud in the first place. If the instructions say drill 6.5mm drill it 6.5, don't think "oh this 1/4 drill will do!" you will either end up with the tool in to shallow at which point you risk it shearing off, beleive me when i say you don't want to do that! If you drill to big the wall thickness of the stud is reduced and all the easiout will do is expand the diameter of the stud rather than screww it out. Eventually the easiout will either work loose in this case or shear!

If you shear an easiout the only way to get them out is to grind it out with a carbide burr or spark erode it! Either way a lot of hassle! I sheared one in an aircraft engine mounting once and it taught me not to take any chances in the future, after eight hours of grinding out the mount i got to go home!

Easiouts are good on newly mated assemblies like yours but you have to be very careful on old rusty bolts/studs etc. I'm not sure what size your stud is but if it is 8mm you want about a 5.5mm easiout.

Hope that helps

Neil

[MrFawlty]

thanks for the info Neil.I will source one and try that
FINGERS CROSSED

cheers
Steve

[dingocooke]

or take the manifold back off, and hopefully there might be the shank of the sheared bolt you can put mole grips on and wind it out; I have managed this on more than one occasion.
Good luck and take it very slowly!!

Steve

[robinj66]

Machine Mart do a 4 piece Stud extractor set which appears to work without need for drilling. Order Code is040210057. Alternatively they do "Irwin Bolt Grip" sets if you still have a head on yours (again no drilling).

I have a levelling plate on my RV8 - try www.v8tuner.co.uk or Real Steel. I ended up using stainless steel manifold bolts from one of the above.

[Dutch Paul]

FWIW Re the above post.
If you manage to break an easyout/tap etc in a hole all is not lost.
Try smashing it into smaller pieces using a hammer and dot punch(wear glasses as the bits will fly about a bit)Taps and easyouts are, although hard, very brittle. Then you can "pick" the pieces out with a piece of thin, strong wire.
This has always worked for me in the past.

[dodger]

Make sure you are buying / using Grade 8 bolts. ( Common automotive SAE Grade )

Many nuts & bolts sold at various outlets are of a much inferior strength for use on vehicles etc.

The correct ones should be marked with an '8' usually on one of the flats of the bolt head.

Hope this helps,

[Almac]

Steve,

As Neil says, be very careful with easiouts, they shear very easily if the stud is tight. Gripping anything that is left protruding would be preferable along with applying heat to the surrounding material if you can.

Good luck.

Alan

[MrFawlty]

Hi all,
Thanks for the replies I will let you know how it goes
Its a real pain having to do a job twice as I get so little time to work on the Cob anyway,such is life
It could be worse I could be driving a Metro!!

Steve