Fan Thermostat

[stu e]

Hi All


I'm after a bit of advice about changing the fan thermostat on my Sumo, it's got the original very low temperature one fitted in the rad. I want to fit an adjustable unit in the top hose. My question is would the capillary unit or the inline one be best. I am concerned that the capillary unit is difficult to seal where it exits the hose although the kits mention an extra seal.
Has anyone had problems with it leaking or am I worrying about nothing?
Also on the 5.7 overheating thread there is mention of a higher pressure rad cap, I have a 15 psi cap on my RV8 tank are other people running the same or would a higher pressure be better.

Thanks Stu

[wilf]

The capillary type (e.g. Kenlowe) have not given me any problems, and I have used them on maybe 6 different cars over the years. There is an extra little rubber seal which tucks under the existing hose and hose clip, and seals the capillary line.
You could, of course, just araldite the capillary bulb to the outside of the radiator, I have seen that done. Not going to be as sensitive as if it was immersed in the water, but it does work. Needs to be in firm contact with the header tank or core though to get reasonable heat transfer.

The other type - the ones fitted inline to the top hose - can't see why they won't work, just more elec wires to run out to the engine and back, whereas the first kind can be mounted on the inner wing or wherever.

Down to personal choice, I suspect.

[SJ]

I went for the in-line fan control unit on the top hose and found this an easy option to install (and reliable so far!). I got mine from Merlin Mailorder but they are widely available from other suppliers (demontweeks etc). Prices upwards from c.£40.

Sorry I can't help on the cap pressure.

Regards

SJ

[craggle]

I brought one of these

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...pcode=GLOEFC25

I think it looks neater and there is less chance of leaks from the tube in the top hose method. I adapted the existing wiring in the Dax loom so it used the original Dax relay but was switched by this unit. It does require a 12 volt feed to it though so you may need to run an extra wire.

I have a 13psi cap on my 350 chevy. The haynes manual for the SD1 rover v8 says 15psi.

Craig.

[Clarkson]

I have one for sale if your interested in 38mm

[stu e]

Hi

Thanks for your replies.

I'm still not sure which one to go for, but at least it doesn't seem as if leakage is an issue.

I would be interested in the one you have for sale, unfortunately my hoses are 35mm.

Thanks Stu

[kev]

I used an capillary type for 3 years before I went electronic. No leaks ever and worked reliably.

Kev

[Mr Bling]

In my experience capiliary is more reliable, as long as you use a little silicone to seal around the join where the wire enters the hose. I had a Merlin unit on my Pacet fan which burnt out melting all the wires after only a few months service. Could be I was just unlucky, but opted to replace it with the old tried and tested method which has seved me well since.:drive:

[Clarkson]

I think the good old fashion fan switch in the intake manifold works the best and it's consistent.

[tonym]

Originally Posted by Clarkson

I have one for sale if your interested in 38mm

How much dave? pm me if you want :thumb: