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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparticus
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas now i've uploaded some pics. I'm really desperate to get my engine in

Thanks
Si
Are the hole centres in the plate the same as the slave? I wonder if you are expected to fabricate ie weld the bracket to the side of the bellhousing? That would explain the ground/ machined section of the plate, so that it follows the form of the bellhousing

Can you not speak with the supplier? BTW nice release fork, it'll be a shame to burry that within the bowels of the chassis!
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 04:28 PM
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Double post
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 04:44 PM
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perhaps you simply drill the bellhousing, and bolt the mounting onto it?
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 05:12 PM
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I'm pretty sure i need to weld it to the bellhousing...but i guess it must fit before the cover plate and flange of the bellhousing (transmission side). If i do this i'll need to:

weld on that plate with the bevel

then cut the threaded rod that fits into the clutch plate (to shorten it, because if it sits in that position i've got Waaaaaaay too much travel).

I'll probably also have to cut off the existing bracket thing so the new one wont foul it.

ALternatively, i could use the existing mount and bolt a thick bit of metal onto it that extends downwards and then mount my slave cylinder to that.
Not sure if that would be strong enough or if it would hit the chassis rails (which kind of defeats the purpose of spending a fortune on a small are clutch fork)

Will still probably need to drill a hole in bellhousing to check i have 1mm space between clutch plate and flywheel when clutch is fully pressed down.
any ideas?
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparticus
I'm pretty sure i need to weld it to the bellhousing...but i guess it must fit before the cover plate and flange of the bellhousing (transmission side). If i do this i'll need to:

weld on that plate with the bevel

then cut the threaded rod that fits into the clutch plate (to shorten it, because if it sits in that position i've got Waaaaaaay too much travel).

I'll probably also have to cut off the existing bracket thing so the new one wont foul it.

ALternatively, i could use the existing mount and bolt a thick bit of metal onto it that extends downwards and then mount my slave cylinder to that.
Not sure if that would be strong enough or if it would hit the chassis rails (which kind of defeats the purpose of spending a fortune on a small are clutch fork)

Will still probably need to drill a hole in bellhousing to check i have 1mm space between clutch plate and flywheel when clutch is fully pressed down.
any ideas?
When I looked at the pics I thought the original bracket mounts with a home made plate would be best subject to room. 2 bolts at the top and a 3rd at the bottom(the plate would need a 90degree section) to fasten onto one of the bellhousing bolts. This would be plenty man enough for the task. I tried a Lakewood bellhousing but it was just too cosey for my liking. Good luck.

The hole in the bottom works a treat and leaves nothing to guess work.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 05:38 PM
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almost 100% sure ther is no hole in the botton of my bellhousing
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparticus
almost 100% sure ther is no hole in the botton of my bellhousing
Not as standard. I made a hole so that I could slide feeler gauges between the pressure plate and flywheel. Takes any guess work out of clutch set up/problems as you can see the plate move from the flywheel when the pedal is depressed. Most clutch manufacturers quote a minimum air gap to acheive clean gear changes. I just cover the hole with a bit of aluminium tape when not needed HTH
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 08:51 PM
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Sooooo.... whats the consensus? do i take off the bracket bit thats already there and weld this bit of curved plate (shown in the photos earlier) onto the bellhousing and shorten the arm of the clutch slave by cutting a bit off it?

(think i'll cut a hole so i can check the distance of the clutch plate from flywheel using a holesaw once i've fixed the clutch slave prob...25mm should be fine)
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 09:07 PM
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Before you go mounting that slave, try to see if you can experiment - experiment to see if there is enough slave travel to ensure the clutch clears.

Far better to find out at this stage, and I can assure you, the majority of clutch problems experienced by builders are down to lack of slave travel.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 09:21 PM
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so how do i ensure i have enough travel? i mean... i could mount the clutch slave...connect it all up to the master cylinder and keep cutting bits off the rod (while at its shortest length) till i get a length that will just reach the arm and once i've done that maybe lengthen it (because at the moment with the clutch slave right up against the flange of the bellhousing and the arm at its shortest length, the arm extends beyond the fork by the best part of 25mm)

errm is this a bad idea?
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