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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 13-04-07, 11:53 PM
Clarkson's Avatar
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Hope this helps mate,

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/h...chpkgpics.html

You have to weld that metal bracket to the bell housing under the top bracket as you can see in the above link

I would sell that bell housing and get the repower setup with a ali bellhousing slave cylinder kit.

Here is an other idea from someone else on this forum that I saved on my PC,below.
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Last edited by Clarkson; 06-07-08 at 08:07 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 12:22 AM
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Well done Dave, it's been bugging me, never mind Si
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miket
Well done Dave, it's been bugging me, never mind Si
I do try and help members on here mate..
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SR Cobra, 350 Chevy, 120db sidepipes with flames on overrun!!

2nd baby due 23rd Jan.

Listen to my 350 idling. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=IauqIQuOX0E
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparticus
so how do i ensure i have enough travel? i mean... i could mount the clutch slave...connect it all up to the master cylinder and keep cutting bits off the rod (while at its shortest length) till i get a length that will just reach the arm and once i've done that maybe lengthen it (because at the moment with the clutch slave right up against the flange of the bellhousing and the arm at its shortest length, the arm extends beyond the fork by the best part of 25mm)

errm is this a bad idea?
Travel is not the same thing as the length of the pushrod. That is just an initial adjustment.

What you need to establish is that the stroke of the slave cylinder gives enough movement at the clutch actuating arm for the clutch to release properly.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 08:13 PM
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Hi Sparticus,

Probably this picture will help you.
It is not my setup but from someone else.
I can see that is welded under the existing bell housing bracket.

Hope this help to make the decision.
When you weld to the bell housing, I would keep it installed and let cool down very slow, do in this way you will shore that no stress will be introduced.

Regards,
Cobra289
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File Type: jpg dscn1407_265.jpg (172.4 KB, 6 views)
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldtopham
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparticus
I'm pretty sure i need to weld it to the bellhousing...but i guess it must fit before the cover plate and flange of the bellhousing (transmission side). If i do this i'll need to:

weld on that plate with the bevel

then cut the threaded rod that fits into the clutch plate (to shorten it, because if it sits in that position i've got Waaaaaaay too much travel).

I'll probably also have to cut off the existing bracket thing so the new one wont foul it.

ALternatively, i could use the existing mount and bolt a thick bit of metal onto it that extends downwards and then mount my slave cylinder to that.
Not sure if that would be strong enough or if it would hit the chassis rails (which kind of defeats the purpose of spending a fortune on a small are clutch fork)

Will still probably need to drill a hole in bellhousing to check i have 1mm space between clutch plate and flywheel when clutch is fully pressed down.
any ideas?
When I looked at the pics I thought the original bracket mounts with a home made plate would be best subject to room. 2 bolts at the top and a 3rd at the bottom(the plate would need a 90degree section) to fasten onto one of the bellhousing bolts. This would be plenty man enough for the task. I tried a Lakewood bellhousing but it was just too cosey for my liking. Good luck.

The hole in the bottom works a treat and leaves nothing to guess work.
I have the same bellhousing and slave cylinder. I had to make my own bracket as shown.
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File Type: jpg slave_cylinder_bracket_3_199.jpg (72.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg slave_cylinder_bracket_1_679.jpg (85.8 KB, 4 views)
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 14-04-07, 11:35 PM
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It was your setup I saved on my PC Mr Bogster.
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2nd baby due 23rd Jan.

Listen to my 350 idling. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=IauqIQuOX0E
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 16-04-07, 10:08 PM
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Right, i welded the mounting plate to the chassis at the weekend and i'd just like to say a big thank you to everyone that helped. I've also attached a couple of pics. I was kind of concerned at the angle that the slave and rod seem to be following but i have enough travel and i'm pretty certain it'll do the job, especially seeing as its a ball joint.
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File Type: jpg cimg1056_865.jpg (435.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg cimg1055_616.jpg (499.3 KB, 9 views)
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 16-04-07, 10:32 PM
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Hi,
It looks pretty nice, good weld too.
The angle looks a bit to much, but it would be possible to correct it now that is outside the Cobra.
My advise is to grind the plate with and angle to get a better push line.

I have made a fast drawing with your picture and I can see that you have a 13 degree angle, this can introduce a bit friction.
Check the picture, you have the space, and when you grind the plate, say 8 degrees you will have a perfect setup.

This is just and opinion, nothing more.

Regards,
Cobra289
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File Type: jpg slave_103.jpg (67.2 KB, 9 views)
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 16-04-07, 11:08 PM
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From experience, I also believe you should try to improve that angle. Hydraulic cylinders do not like side loadings - it promotes very rapid wear.

It is going to be far easier to improve this now while the engine is out, than a year later when you have it installed and a pool of hydraulic fluid on the floor and no clutch.
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