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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-07, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dingocooke
Not too keen on fixed cylinders anyway, theyre pushing against a lever whose contact point is moving in an arc, and even though its approx 200mm rad, the contact point if recessed to take the ball end of the rod, will move enough to bind the cylinder somewhat and make the clutch action heavier. I think it wqould make a much better job if the back of the slave cylinder was mounted on a pivot, but I suppose its an extreme length to go to.

Looking at what youve got there, a little 'adjustment' of the bracket angle should get you in position; I think you should be able to take the bracket off, pop it in a vice and tweak it with a soft mallet; t doesnt look like it will need much to get in in the right position; or as previously suggested, you could make a spacer to move the cylinder bracket out; looking at your pic Im guessing a spacer cut from 5/16" or 8mm ally plate will do the trick.
The cylinder isn't fixed - the push rod has a pivot at the piston - as the piston moves out the lateral play in the pushrod increases - so there would not be any tendancy to bind.

I'm liking the idea of "adjustment" - if anything it may make me feel better!

No-one got a photo of the angle of their bracket?

Cheers,

Simon.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-07, 06:27 PM
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ref slave cylinder

Hi Simon

Had the same problem with my braket it was 70 degs, ground off welds and re welded at new angle 78 degs hope this helps Andy
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-07, 07:18 PM
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Re: ref slave cylinder

Quote:
Originally Posted by andy l
Hi Simon

Had the same problem with my braket it was 70 degs, ground off welds and re welded at new angle 78 degs hope this helps Andy
Thanks Andy...... I think that's proved it for me!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-07, 12:50 PM
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Simon drop Ian a line at BAE I`m sure that he`ll be able to solve that problem for you.

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-07, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange Cobra View Post
Simon drop Ian a line at BAE I`m sure that he`ll be able to solve that problem for you.

Regards Frank
Thanks Frank - Ian's allready on to it.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-07, 01:25 PM
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I thought speaking to Brian at Re-Power would be a good idea seeing as he supplied the bracket.
Maybe he had some dodgy ones made that had the wrong angle when they were welded together.

Craig.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-08, 09:17 PM
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Apologies for bumping an old thread here, but it's directly relevant to issues I'm having with the RePower SBC clutch slave cylinder and bracket!

My clutch started slipping on the way to Stoneleigh last year. A quick chat with Dave Brookes on his stand and I was able to adjust the length of the rod on the slave cylinder. However, there was very little thread left for any subsequent wear/adjustment. A year on, and the clutch started slipping again. Shortening the rod as far as it would go (i.e no thread left!) there was still no free play. And worse still, after this adjustment the clutch pedal wouldn't move at all - seized solid!

Further inspection revealed that the bracket was at too acute an angle - the actuating rod was out of true and was seized on the washer that prevents overthrow of the slave cylinder. I solved this by sandwiching an old Allen key between the rear of the cylinder and the bracket to get the rod in better alignment.

Inspiration then struck me, and I inserted 10mm spacers between the slave mounting bracket and the bellhousing to give me more adjustability on the rod thread. So, I now have a working clutch again - but it's all a bit of a bodge!

I'm going to get a new bracket made up with less acute angle - 78 rather than 70 degrees (as per a previous post by Andy L in this thread) sounds about right. That will remove the need for the Allen key spacer bodge. If I also have either a second pair of holes for the slave cylinder mounting drilled 10-15mm further back, or have two slots rather than two holes, that will remove the need for the 10mm spacer bodge.

I should add that I'm not heavy on the clutch. However I suspect with the limited free play I've had, this may have caused premature wear on the clutch plates - though on both occasions that clutch slip has been evident, I've taken remedial action straight away.

My question is this. If I've effectively had to shorten the rod by 10mm in order to get free play in the mechanism, does this mean that my clutch plates are now near their serviceable limit? I might just give Repower a call tomorrow - but has anyone else had this problem?
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