Can I start her up??

[salypenter]

Dear All

Just rebuilt a SBC from scratch (first time at engine building) and she's already to go except for two things which I am wondering if they are needed for 1st fire. Taking awile to source (!) and I want to see if the engine runs so I can get on with other stuff once I know it doesn't have to come out again.
- Manifolds are on but no side pipes (on order) - OK to run but may go a bit deaf and the timing may need tweaking?
- Have a getrag geatbox mated to the engine but I am still looking for a yoke to make the prop from. As the yoke is also an oil seal I do not have any oil in the gearbox. If I run the engine in neutral (i.e. minimal moving parts in the 'box) is would this be OK or am I just being reckless even suggesting it?

As always thanks for your help!!!


John

[rileyhr]

Get the prop shaft on and oil in the box, not worth the risk.

[Dutch Paul]

Personally, I would do it - I already did!!

I put about a pint of oil in the gearbox - enough to lubricate, but not enough to spew out the output shaft.
Just running the engine up shouldn`t do any harm as the gearbox isn`t having to do any work (although, even in neutral, the output shaft will turn a little with the engine..

Like I said, I did it during cam break-in and didn`t suffer any damage, but I wouldn`t advise anyone to do it - if you know what I mean.
I definitely wouldn`t try it with an automatic box though.

Your choice.

[TINKA]

Personally I would not do it without the prop in and oil in the gearbox

[Noel]

I'll second that....you do not want to fire it up and have it just idling as you will glaze the bores very quickly. Hard to take as the urge to hear it running must be huge but you could wreck all your work in the first few minutes. Why not just take the gearbox off and run it

[Martyn-ak427]

I agree with the above & additionally when your ready to fire your engine for the first time do the following:

Make sure you have a good quality mineral based oil in your engine, something like Valvoline Racing as this contains additives to help with the break in, (I think zinc?).

Pre-oil your engine. On a ford this is accomplished by remving the dizzy & rotating the oil pump drive shaft with either a hand spinner or a drill, (you need to do this for 20 mins or so to ensure she's well lubed up!)

When she first fires you need to vary the revs between 1500 - 3000 rpm to break in a flat tappet cam, (I presume you have applied plenty of moly lube to the cam lobes & dizzy drive gear). You need to vary the revs without stopping the engine for about 20 - 30 minutes. You would find this difficult without headers as you may well get singhed by the flames comming out of your head exhaust ports!!

Once you have broke in the cam shut your engine down & check the engine over specifically looking for leaks & drips. Also whip off your rocker covers & check rocker adjuster locking nut tightness. The colour of the oil & any contaminents will also give you an indication that your break in has been succesfull.

Without sounding pessimistic make sure you have a fire extinguisher present during this process & also an assistant for either; a, cracking a beer open following the successful first fire or, b, a shoulder to cry on should it all go t*ts up!

One final note; if you are in a position to get your engine out of the chassis do it & take it to someone like Tim adams or Ken at EDA for proper dyno rig break in & setup.

Good luck.
Martyn

[Cobra289]

Hi,
The next I can say. Don't take any risk and go through all the steps that are necessary like:
Put engine under oil pressure. But don't stop when you get pressure at the gauge and continue till you see oil coming at every rocker.
Have pressure, did cost me 2 sec. till 40 psi and 5 sec. till 70 psi but get oil at the every rocker was 20 minutes. The drill machine was smoking like hell and it was a moment that I was forced to stop because my hand could handle the heat of the drill machine. (use a cheap drill but a 230 v a cordless never can handle)
As sun as the oil pump kick the oil your dill machine will drop in revs till say 300 rpm.
To get oil at every rocker you need to rotate the crack bit by bit several revs is enough. And to get an easy crank rotation it is better if you remove the sparks during this job.
Check the pictures at my site.

Now you have oil everywhere you can adjust the hydraulic lifters (if you have those)

How to adjust:

According Chevrolet Shop manual of a Camaro 1987 the adjusting should be like has been seed many times, zero lash and than 1/2 turn.

With the engine in the No. 1 firing position, the following valves can be adjusted:
V8: Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8
V8: Intake 1, 2, 5, 7
Crank the engine 1 full revolution until the marks are again in alignment. This is the No. 6 firing position. The following valves can now be adjusted:
V8: Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7
V8: Intake 3, 4, 6, 8

But if you have a long duration cam (to be shore) I will use the next:

A. Turn the engine over until the No. 1 cylinder exhaust lifter
just starts to move up. At this point, install adjusting nut on
the intake rocker to “zero lash”. Turn 1/2 turn

B. Turn the engine over again until the intake lifter just stops
coming down. Install the adjusting nut on the exhaust
rocker arm and adjust to "zero lash". Turn 1/2 turn

Install now the distributor.
How to install the distributor the right way.
- Set engine at the firing position of #1. (not the #6) (stop at the required advance 6° or 12° what ever you want to use)
- Set the oil pump slot inline with the engine crank.
- Pick the distributor with the #1 spark pointing the front of the engine and check that the rotor point to the #1
- Drop the distributor, it will rotate a bit at the dull drop.

Check the position of the distributor rotor and #1 should be inline. Now start to plug all the sparks wires.

Check the fuel delivering and the fuel pressure.

All the fluid should be in, include the gearbox, your problem of the joke can be easy solved by putting there a nice cap and tape off, you will never had oil spillage if you are fast at the time of the joke installation.

Don't take any risk.
But enjoy as much as possible. Take videos!

I hope this help!

Regards,
Cobra289

[wilf]

I think you will find that little oil will escape from the tailshaft housing even if the 'box is fairly full of oil, which it should be if you are going to run the engine. Even in neutral, there is an awful lot of parts turning on each other inside a gearbox.

[Noel]

So John......thought you could just start it eh .......

Best of luck if we have'nt all put you off completely :P

[Dutch Paul]

Originally Posted by Noel

So John......thought you could just start it eh .......

Best of luck if we have'nt all put you off completely :P

Just go for it - it should look something like this........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJuS0jR6_E4