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| Hi Ceejay,If the alignment tool is too small wrap it with insulation tape or just align it by eye either way. Cheers. John. |
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| Thanks for the reply John Unfortunatly I've tried both of those ideas - no avail I'm afraid! CeeJay
__________________ Got engaged on xmas day so I have 15 months to get the cobra finished so I can drive it to my own wedding - I'd best get the finger out... |
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| may I suggest you try the driven plate on the spline to ensure it fits and then as others have said tape round a tool or a screwdriver works every time maybe a little grease to help insertion final tip put the gearbox in gear which will allow you to rock the input shaft slightly Steve
__________________ Euro 427 Rover 3.5 V8 worried about my carbon footprint-- need to make it bigger! |
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| Quote:
If you could get hold of an old mainshaft from an LT77 you could use that, Stevey may be able to help as he did say he had a scrap bin at work full of LT77 gearbox bits he may be worth a try. Just a suggestion PS I would be wary of putting too much grease on the spigot as you can cause hydraulic lock and you will never push it in just a trace may help.
__________________ Blue Sumo Mk111 RPI 4ltr crossbolt V8 Piper cam Webber 4 barrel freeflow headers Mallory dizzy Jag running gear with powerlock Diff. Last edited by alfiebeard; 09-09-07 at 08:37 PM. |
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| Quote:
If you hear swearing at the weeekend its probably coming from a small garage in Scotland! CeeJay.
__________________ Got engaged on xmas day so I have 15 months to get the cobra finished so I can drive it to my own wedding - I'd best get the finger out... |
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| Well thats the clutch finally fitted - what a tight fitting bugger! I ended up modifying part of the universal fitting tool I bought from halfords by drilling it out to accept a bigger shaft, and slotting in a round bar of steel I had lying around which I had to mill down a little to fit the bearing. Anyway its in now so I'm going to go and re-fit the prop-shaft. This'll be the first time I've had the drivetrain fully fitted to the car so I'm looking forward to a few beers tonight to celibrate! Thanks for all the suggestions folks - and if anyone needs a loan of the clutch tool I made then just drop me an email! CeeJay.
__________________ Got engaged on xmas day so I have 15 months to get the cobra finished so I can drive it to my own wedding - I'd best get the finger out... |
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| Nice one Ceejay, Glad its all gone ok for you, now wait for something else breaking and you will forget all about the clutch hassle eh take care
__________________ Blue Sumo Mk111 RPI 4ltr crossbolt V8 Piper cam Webber 4 barrel freeflow headers Mallory dizzy Jag running gear with powerlock Diff. |
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| Thought I might add a follow up comment to this old post. Yesterday I fitted a new thrust bearing which meant that the gearbox had to come off again - no problem should slip straight back in... but of course lifes not like that and the gearbox refuses to go back in - and even my home made alignment tool isn't helping. So I had a quick browse on the web and lo-and-behold Rimmer Bros do a 'Proper' alignment tool for this engine/box. By 'Proper' I mean a splined bar rather than those useless universal plastic one you get in Halfords for £13. You can find the tool on the following url, or give Rimmer Bros a call, quoting part number RX1386B. Rimmer Bros. - Product Price Information Right thats my good deed for the day done - now I think I'll spend the rest of the day sorting out the brakes, while waiting for the alignment tool to arrive in the post... CeeJay.
__________________ Got engaged on xmas day so I have 15 months to get the cobra finished so I can drive it to my own wedding - I'd best get the finger out... |
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| Funny that is post should come up as I've just had to conect my bellhousing up to my new engine, twice! (once on the bench and once under the car). This is what I did and it worked OK for me. I just used a large drill bit that fitted into the spigot bearing, (the shank end) I wrapped one layer of insulation tape round the shank so it was a very good fit. I then used some coolant tube and gaffer tape to build up the diameter of the drill bit to the size of the splines. Then do the following:- 1. Engage the plain shaft and the spigot bearing but don't try the engage the splines. (You can tell when this has happened as the bellhousing and box will sort of hang off the back of the engine) 2. Get some long 3/8 unc bolts with a thread up all the way (screws), run a nut up the screws then push them through the bell housing and screw them at least 15-20mm into the block. (I used two screws in total, but the more the better). 3. Put the gearbox in gear and then slowly and evenly wind the nuts up the screws so that they push the two parts together, at the same time turn the flange at the back of the gearbox. 4. Once the gap between the bellhousing and the block is down to about 15mm your should hear and feel the splines engage. There should be very little force required to turn the nuts, if they go tight then something is going wrong. Like others have said, check that the friction plate does fit the shaft. Also check that the plain shaft does fit inside the spigot bearing. Also check that the friction plate is on the right way round! (The larger boss facing AWAY from the flywheel). Doing it this way is very easy and no force is required, trying to man-handle the box to line up the splines is a complete bastxrd of a job IMO! HTH, Pete
__________________ I refuse to engage in a battle of wits with an unarmed opponent. |
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