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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 16-09-07, 06:25 PM
Stu J's Avatar
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Panel work

I am in the process of fitting the boot/bonnet and doors, but before I continue the doors etc need trimming back on the edges and de-flashlining.
Is there anyone that can give useful guidance on how far to trim back edges and what with, plus what is the best grade wet and dry sandpaper on the flashlines?
Pictures an advantage.
Cheers Stu
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Old 16-09-07, 09:24 PM
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Ok I may have put the post up too early, can anyone help at this time please?
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Old 16-09-07, 09:32 PM
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I dare say opinions will vary but I used 600, 800 then 1200. Don't go straight up and down the flash line the paper will just clog quickly. I used a block and went across at 90 Deg to the lines.

I used the coarse to get it close but go steady, keep checking and then used the fine. Don't know what you kit is, I understand some are worse than others.

Mine's an AK and I think they are generally well thought of as flash lines go, mine certainly wasn't a major drama, just boring work.

Cheers
Warren

P.S. With regards to soaking the paper in warm soapy water for a few minutes, do it, it works and keeping the paper very wet also works well. Plenty wet = less clogging = more material removed.

Cheers
Warren
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Old 16-09-07, 09:38 PM
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Thanks for that advice Warren I was not sure which grade to use, but as far as the door/bonnet inside edges are concerned do you go flush with the panel or does there remain a lip on the inside? It is a sumo
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Old 16-09-07, 09:41 PM
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Stu,
I did,nt trim any edges as my car was already sort of built, but i did paint it and removed what was left of the flashlines, I used 280 grit with a soft block to start to get the roughest lines down , dont go to far and break through the gel coat, and finished with 600grit, then primed the body with Reface Polyester filler primer 3 coats, flatting back each coat with 600grit, then finally primed the body with 2 pack white primer, then flatted that back with 600grit, then applied 4 coats of 2k high solids super black paint, and let it harden up for a few days and finally buff any orange peel or marks with G3 Farecla compound,

Hope this helps
PS THIS IS ONLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO PAINT IT,IF YOU ARE LEAVING IT IN GEL COAT FOLLOW WARRENS ADVICE.
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Last edited by alfiebeard; 16-09-07 at 09:43 PM. Reason: forgot to add extra info
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Old 16-09-07, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu J View Post
Thanks for that advice Warren I was not sure which grade to use, but as far as the door/bonnet inside edges are concerned do you go flush with the panel or does there remain a lip on the inside? It is a sumo
Sorry Mate, I know nuffink about Sumo's. On the AK getting the door gaps etc I really just did enough for them to fit as I was always planning on getting it painted proffesionally eventually. If there is a lip I would suspect it might be there for a reason.

Either wait for a Sumo member or find a few in the gallery section, soemone will have taken a door 'close up' picture I'm sure. Or you replicate your mail in the Sumo tech forum.

Cheers
Warren
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Old 16-09-07, 10:10 PM
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Thanks Alfie and Warren anyway, I had not thought about painting it, it definately looks like hard work, so i'll stick to the polish.
I will try however to look for pics in past threads.
Cheers chaps
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