slipping clutch -> reducing lenght of slave cylinder?

[Cobra power]

When I drive on the highway and put down the accelerator, the engine revs before the car picks-up speed. I have the feeling that the cause is a slipping clutch plate. BEcause the whole setup is relatively new (no more than 1500-2000 miles), I have ruled out wear of the clutch.

I think there is pre-load on the slave cylinder. I cannot push the clutch fork rearwards (against the slave cylinder). However, I already have set the slave cylinder to the shortest length.

What is the easiest way to move the cylinder more backwards.

Thanks!

[Martyn-ak427]

Hi,

Im not sure what setup you have but my slave cylinder, (pushes to disengage the clutch) will have an adjustable rod between the slave & the clutch fork, (I think the adjustable rod is fairly common on this type of setup).

Regards,

Martyn.

[Cobra power]

the rod is indeed adjustable, but I have already used all the available thread.

[wilf]

So long as you are SURE that there is no problem with the slave cylinder - shorten the pushrod.

[maxGD059]

I agree with Wilf -I had a slipping clutch once that was casued by some gunge in the slave preventing the pushrod from completely withdrawing. Nearly had to box out to investigate but saw sense just in time! -a rare occurance I must admit on both accounts.

[Impulsebooks]

Originally Posted by wilf

So long as you are SURE that there is no problem with the slave cylinder - shorten the pushrod.

Before shortening the rod, I would experiment with lengths by packing the slave cylinder back (away from) the clutch actuating arm. The reason for this is the old adage "measure twice (or even more) cut once".

The push rod should not have any load on it when the pedal is not pressed. It should be simply resting against the actuating arm. If there is load on it, then you will find your thrust bearing wearing prematurely.

This is what I would do: Set the push rod length midway. Then using longer bolts and pain washers to attach the cylinder, move the slave cylinder away from the arm until you end up with the arm moving a slightly (0.5 mm or less -- use any feeler gauge to prove a gap exists) Then measure the amount of washers you needed to achieve this, and cut that exact amount from the push rod. Discard the extra long bolts and washers and reassemble your slave.

You should now have what you need for proper operation.

Regards
Mark

[Cobra power]

thanks for all your advice. Will be carefull and recheck.

Another cause could be the all leakage I had a few month ago. There was a large spray of engine oil under the car. Could have found its way between the flywheel and clutch plate.

If so, is there an easy way to check, or should the oil wear of after some driving? If so I will wait and see if the problem solves itself

[wilf]

If you have contaminated your clutch driven plate with engine oil, it is very unlikely to "fix itself", so fingers crossed it is not that.