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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
It is all right doing all these mods but it seams it is only pilgrims that seam to have any problem, . My RV8 in the AK never had any problems at all and I know of other Dax, GD etc which don’t have this issue. Surely there is a fundamental problem with the Sumo set-up
Tinka, I think you have missed the point. RCCob's setup doesn't allow him to fill his system without disconnecting the top hose and he does not want a filler neck in this.

RCCob, the stat mod is to drill and tap a hole at the highest point suitable for a pipe fitting of your choice to enable the air to escape, but it needs to be connected to the bottom of your head tank also. Craggle on here has done this to his Chevy.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 09:09 PM
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Tinka, didn't mean to sound rood. I think the main issue is trapped air as RCCob's setup does not allow for any trapped air to be expelled.

Just read back and Demus has already covered what I have posted.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 09:26 PM
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Ian pointed me in the direction of this thread. Cheers

I did add a breather pipe from the top hose back to the header tank in my Chevy powered Dax. The Dax solution is a £75 thermostat housing with an additional pipe stuck in the side but I added my own pipe to the top hose. Any welding / fabrication shop should be able to do this.

The pipe can be seen in the attached photo. It is the pipe that goes from the top hose to the top of the header tank. It allows any air trapped in the engine to go to the highest point then vent back into the header tank.

Craig.
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Old 01-04-08, 10:02 PM
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The reason Tinka didn't have a problem is because the AK header tank has the breather built in and the pipe goes to an outlet on the top of the Rover SD1 rad.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miket View Post
The reason Tinka didn't have a problem is because the AK header tank has the breather built in and the pipe goes to an outlet on the top of the Rover SD1 rad.
There you go, another option! Lets here it for the AK man.

Cheers Mike.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miket View Post
The reason Tinka didn't have a problem is because the AK header tank has the breather built in and the pipe goes to an outlet on the top of the Rover SD1 rad.
The sumo header tank also has a breather pipe built in which goes to the top of the rad, come on Mike, you should know that I have no cooling/filling problems with my EFI Rover engine so perhaps the mod is only required with that particular inlet manifold/carb set-up
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tonym View Post
The sumo header tank also has a breather pipe built in which goes to the top of the rad, come on Mike, you should know that I have no cooling/filling problems with my EFI Rover engine so perhaps the mod is only required with that particular inlet manifold/carb set-up
My RV8 setup had the connection to the top of the rad but this was much lower than the top of the intake. I had a bleed connection from the highest point on the intake, SU setup, and the top hose linked in with the pipe from the top of the rad with the head tank mounted on the rear of the intake manifold. No more problems, until now. Different ball game!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-08, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonym View Post
The sumo header tank also has a breather pipe built in which goes to the top of the rad, come on Mike, you should know that I have no cooling/filling problems with my EFI Rover engine so perhaps the mod is only required with that particular inlet manifold/carb set-up
Correct Tony, I didn't have a problem with mine, but do Pilgrim supply a header tank, I got mine off some make off Vauxhall.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-08, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miket View Post
Correct Tony, I didn't have a problem with mine, but do Pilgrim supply a header tank, I got mine off some make off Vauxhall.
Hi guys and thanks for the replies it has given me plenty to think about. So what I've done for a start is put a small bleed in the stat housing as hi as possible at the same time I replaced the stat for a 74 degree apposed to the 82 that was fitted. The other problem is the expansion tank dose not have an air bleed return to the top of the tank. It just has one at the bottom which at the moment goes to the top of the rad. If the bleed mod dose not work I will have to fit a pipe from the bleed to the top of the expansion tank. I have attached a pic of the expansion tank and the stat before the mods. I just need some fine weather to test it now wish full thinking I know.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-08, 09:24 PM
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Before you drive the car again please, please, please remove that fuel filter.

Those glass or plastic filters will not withstand the heat directly above an engine and will split, crack or leak sooner or later spraying fuel under pressure onto the top of a very hot engine.

There is really no need to have a filter under the bonnet. Keep it at the rear of the car away from any heat and vibration. If you really insist on one under the bonnet then get a Filter king filter housing and mount it firmly on the bulkhead.

Good luck with the cooling system.

Cheers

Craig.
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Last edited by craggle; 05-04-08 at 09:27 PM.
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