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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 08:35 PM
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Hi Dave,

Just found this on the net, is this what you mean? if it isn't parallel do you simply shim as required?

Russ
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daxman View Post
Hi Dave,

Just found this on the net, is this what you mean? if it isn't parallel do you simply shim as required?

Russ

Good find Russ.
However the instructions do seem a bit "Arse about face". If you check the bore first and sort that out as it suggests, then adjust the mounting face afterwards this will put the bore out of alignment again.
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Last edited by dave; 03-06-08 at 08:49 PM.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 09:10 PM
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So if the mounting face is out how do you correct it? Shims between the bellhousing and block?

Russ
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daxman View Post
So if the mounting face is out how do you correct it? Shims between the bellhousing and block?

Russ
If the bell housing is out I would send it back and get it replaced. Can't believe the block would be out as it would have always caused a problem. I am sure they don't check this out in the factory.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 09:27 PM
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These measurements are not so important if you are fitting a flex plate and torque converter.

Russ.
You got it, shim between the block and bellhousing to get a "level playing field", then centralise everything.
Job's a good'n.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-08, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dave View Post
These measurements are not so important if you are fitting a flex plate and torque converter.

Russ.
You got it, shim between the block and bellhousing to get a "level playing field", then centralise everything.
Job's a good'n.
Cheers Dave, I'll check tomorrow and let you all know how i get on.

Russ
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-08, 09:09 PM
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Well i've just come in from the garage, and i'm a little fed up.

i clocked the gearbox mounting face and it was 0.004 further out at the bottom than the top, so as a temp measure i used several pairs of feeler gauges and managed to get it bang parallel with the flywheel, great.

But no by doing this it has made it worse! 0.062 instead of 0.054". so I then removed the dowels tried lining it up on just the bolts and again side to side is OK, but it just won't go up enough because of the bolts. So could it be the bellhousing? I know that it is one of a newly machined batch, so has anyone else just got a bellhousing from repower and having the same problem?

would it be possible for some one to take a photo of the engine side of theirs and take some measurements hole centres ect.

Thanks for you time and advice guy's it's all appreiciated.

Russ
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-08, 09:22 PM
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Hi Russ,

Got mine about three weeks ago, one of the latest batch. All lined up OK first time I am afraid / delighted ( / ) My block is a 1989 SBC and Brian reckons these are much more true than the older ones. Don't know how true this is, could just have been part of the sales pitch. He also said that it is very rare for the bellhousing to be f@cked but does sometimes happen.
Did you have to wait long? Have just got my clucth plated 12 weeks late. Hopefully if it is f@cked, you won't have to wait long for a replacement.
Regards,
Dave
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-08, 10:22 AM
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Russ
Having read your posts I would return the bellhousing and exchange it for another one. Whatever you do, DO NOT DRILL NEW DOWEL HOLES!!!! I did and as a result I'm even more frustrated than I was before. Instead of having one set of pins the same amount out, I now have 2 holes which need to be individually aligned. I've resorted to putting interference fit plugs in the drilled holes, long (2") interference fit bushes in the b/h to counter the hand-drill wobble, lining it up by DTI, clamping, drilling and reaming the new holes to size!!! What I should have done of course was to make up a set of o/s pins in the workshop, but no, I though I was cleverer than that! Doh!
I have 20/20 hindsight vision now!
Graham
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-08, 07:35 PM
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Just a thought but if/when you get it all to line up, you then have to take it off again to put the clutch in, am I right. Then put back the bellhousing and hope the dowels havent slipped, (unless using the TINKA patented method - this sounds a very practical solution)which when we are talking about such small measures it is possible surely!

Thus only one way to be certain and that's weld the washers in place hence permanently align the bellhousing - is this right?

Steve
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