Image wheel problem (again...)

[Robin427]

Had a problem with my rear nearside wheel, it's a 3-piece alloy from Image. A couple of years ago, I need to have the rim replaced and it was close to Christmas. Now, I'm not saying that they did a bodge job, but shortly afterwards it started leaking. I had the tyre taken off and then resealed the wheel myself. Some of the bolts had sheared before I started but I managed to get all but one of them out.

Anyway, wheel been back on the car for a while now, with 34/35 bolts done up. It has been rubbing slightly on the inner arch and although I found a loose bolt on the upright (this is a factory assembled chassis - thanks GD!!) I could still hear a slight ticking as I drove along.

Decided to test the runout with a dial indicator this evening. It was roughly 0.04", about 1mm, which doesn't sound that bad on a 17" rim, but as I took the wheel back off again to replace it with the known good one (to see how that was), I heard a faint jingling noise. Turns out that about half of the star washers had cracked and come loose (some had actually fallen off). On closer inspection, I found that many of the bolts were virtually only finger tight and 3 more bolts had sheared in the same place as the first, so I'm going to have to redo the lot again before Le Mans...

If anyone has 3-piece wheels, I'd advise you to check them once in a while as it's probably not the best way to run a car

Anyone know where to get the steel threaded inserts for the wheel centre?

[Toddy]

Are the other 3 wheels OK ?

[Robin427]

As far as I know, yes, but the two front ones are locked on (I've lost the locking key) and although I've got some bolt removers that should deal with them, I'm reluctant to chew them up until I need to take them off

[lutman]

Originally Posted by Robin427

Had a problem with my rear nearside wheel, it's a 3-piece alloy from Image. A couple of years ago, I need to have the rim replaced and it was close to Christmas. Now, I'm not saying that they did a bodge job, but shortly afterwards it started leaking. I had the tyre taken off and then resealed the wheel myself. Some of the bolts had sheared before I started but I managed to get all but one of them out.

Anyway, wheel been back on the car for a while now, with 34/35 bolts done up. It has been rubbing slightly on the inner arch and although I found a loose bolt on the upright (this is a factory assembled chassis - thanks GD!!) I could still hear a slight ticking as I drove along.

Decided to test the runout with a dial indicator this evening. It was roughly 0.04", about 1mm, which doesn't sound that bad on a 17" rim, but as I took the wheel back off again to replace it with the known good one (to see how that was), I heard a faint jingling noise. Turns out that about half of the star washers had cracked and come loose (some had actually fallen off). On closer inspection, I found that many of the bolts were virtually only finger tight and 3 more bolts had sheared in the same place as the first, so I'm going to have to redo the lot again before Le Mans...

If anyone has 3-piece wheels, I'd advise you to check them once in a while as it's probably not the best way to run a car

Anyone know where to get the steel threaded inserts for the wheel centre?

I also have a three piece rim set on my car being assembled in South Africa.
Whilst my 427SC was being prepared for sale I ran the car whilst on holiday there and also noted a " ticking" noise - ran my fingers around the assembly bolt set and found several loose. At least one on every wheel. I was lucky not to have any leaks.
NOTE: In all fairness to Image my wheels (for shipping purposes) were not delivered to me assembled by them. They were assembled by specialist wheel agency
Tightened them up but found they loosened again in quite a short period. and running at road legal speeds (honest).
Took the wheels back to the specialist in J'burg and he clearly stated that the assembly bolts/nuts MUST be replaced each time the rim is taken apart. Not a cost that we would want too often!
The message is clear - the nuts should be checked for security on a routine basis - I now put a blob of paint on each thread to act as a loctite type effect and it is easily seen if the paint becomes cracked - not seen from the road as its on the inside rim.

[KevinW]

wonder what happens if you have the new type of wheel with the nuts hidden - is it a write-off?

[lutman]

Originally Posted by KevinW

wonder what happens if you have the new type of wheel with the nuts hidden - is it a write-off?

This is new one for me - I have not seen an image 3 piece rim with hidden nuts ?
Not being confused by two piece welded rim with dummy screw heads ?

[Steve]

I have seen the threaded inserts on the new type wheel pull out......though i have never had an issue with mine.

I do think if I were going to buy a 3 piece again, a traditional nut and bolt would be my preference to bolt and insert

[lutman]

Originally Posted by Steve

I have seen the threaded inserts on the new type wheel pull out......though i have never had an issue with mine.

I do think if I were going to buy a 3 piece again, a traditional nut and bolt would be my preference to bolt and insert

Steve, many thanks for the quick reply - For me its either a full welded rim, thats to say an insert welded into a spun rim or a multi piece rim with multi bolts and lock nuts.
With inserts is there any loctite required or similar locking method ?

[KevinW]

Originally Posted by lutman

This is new one for me - I have not seen an image 3 piece rim with hidden nuts ?
Not being confused by two piece welded rim with dummy screw heads ?

I meant something like this

CHB

- I assumed it was a 3 piece, may well be wrong?

[Steve]

the CHB and most image rims are 3 piece, latterly with the bolts going from the rear into captive steel threaded inserts in the ali rim.

they used to go in from the outside, through the rim sections, then e affixed with nylocs....