Dax Bonnet Mounting

[Geezer]

Hi Guys
Well it's time to get stuck in as my 'to do' list is getting longer than John Holmes' todger.
I have a Dax, bought it pretty much complete and cannot fault most of the major jobs. I could see that the finishing (where done)left a lot to be desired and the price reflected this. Yes, I did know what I was letting myself in for...
Got a couple of things would help me get on.
The Bonnet had been mounted pretty true but the gas struts were shot. It had never been laid on ruuber stops, so was low, and the mounting plates had more washers than a Chinese Laundry in a failed attempt to raise it up. Fitted some rubber stops around the opening and made up a couple of Ally spacer plates and all was good. Found that the Gas Struts had been mixed up with a 90N/40N in both front and back. The 90's seemed OK so mounted them on the Bonnet. It seems there is sufficient movement in the Bonnet hinge to move the Bonnet back about 5mm when the struts are closed and pushing aft taking the Bonnet out of alignment. The bonnet hinge mountings bolt to the Inner Wings which flex enough to cause the mis-alignment. So, what are my options...
I feel a stiffening plate on the hinge mounting wouldn't work as there is a fair bit of flex in the thin Inner Wing. I could go for click-stops but can I use the Gas Strut mountings? I don't really want to drill them out. As I say, Bonnet lines up fine without the backward pressure.

Any ideas more than welcome

[Lloyd Barnes]

I'll be interested in the answer to this as well as I spent ages lining up the bonnet, then fitted the struts to find the same thing as you.

I'd assumed the best fix would be to measure the movement caused by the struts, and move the bonnet forwards on its mountings by the same amount so that the struts push it into the correct alignment? Does seem a bit of a bodge tho

[craggle]

The engine bay lining, if fitted, can make the inner wing area stiffer.

I too fitted by bonnet without the struts then had to re-fit it after fitting the struts.

I simply slotted the holes a couple of mm more in the bonnet hinge plate and it all lined up perfectly and still does after a couple of years.

90N struts are for the bonnet and the weaker ones are for the boot.

Craig.

[Geezer]

Tks for replies.
I am not keen to elongate the plate holes although fully understand that it has worked. I do not have the pleasure of an engine bay lining but was thinking of perhaps a 2-3mm Ally plate on the whole mounting surface to move the pressure to the corners which are probably stiffer. Having not taken the Bonnet hinge apart I guess it is not continuous and the ends could move in by that amount which may also reduce any slack.
Thoughts?...

[Lloyd Barnes]

I have the linings and it still moves on mine. This is even with the linings bonded and riveted to the entire inner wing surface. The hinges are a pretty basic affair. I can believe that the movement would be coming from those once rearward pressure is applied.

If slotting the holes is good enough for Craigs car its good enough for mine! I've had a look in his gallery though and I think those hinges could be polished a bit more?

[craggle]

You could always slot the holes in the fibreglass inner wings and move the whole assembly forward. If you then add spreader plates it will help to stiffen up the area as well as cover up the slots.

One of my regrets is not getting bare steel bonnet hinges and sending them off for chrome plating. I will get another set organised one day.

Craig.

[craggle]

Ohh, just remembered why I only slotted the holes by a couple of milimeters.

I increased the amount of curve in the hinge plates. I measured the distance from the tube to the plate that the bonnet attaches to, then squeezed it in a vice until it was about 10mm shorter than before.
Do the same to the other one and it should fit fine. The 2mm slots just allows for final fine adjustment.

Craig.

[dave]

Originally Posted by Pete D-H

Tks for replies.
I am not keen to elongate the plate holes although fully understand that it has worked. I do not have the pleasure of an engine bay lining but was thinking of perhaps a 2-3mm Ally plate on the whole mounting surface to move the pressure to the corners which are probably stiffer. Having not taken the Bonnet hinge apart I guess it is not continuous and the ends could move in by that amount which may also reduce any slack.
Thoughts?...

Just slot the holes, job done ....And save yorself a days work (Which won't work anyway).
There is an easy solution, which has to be thought about before any drilling etc. But it seems you have bought a car that has been built without the builder pre planning for this, and have to live with what you have.

[Geezer]

All advice taken - always nice to be reminded what I have taken on - we all have to start somewhere!
After some thought I am leaning toward elongating the holes in the Inner Wing. Reasons - Mainly because the bonnet will be adjusted 'in situ' and the elongation will be hidden by the plate in the engine bay and by a manufactured plate (also acting as a slight spreader) in the wheel well. I probably need nearer 4mm of forward adjustment which, if taken out of the bonnet mounting plate alone is getting very near the corners. Besides, I could always do that afterwards if any final adjustment is needed. Loved the idea of tightening up the curve but had visions of me twanging a bloody great lump of metal across the garage... Anyway, do let me know if you foresee any pitfalls.
Cheers for now

[craggle]

Can't see any problems with that. Should work just fine.

Craig.