Timing - RV8

[martin_t]

I am about ready to start my engine for the first time (3.5 RV and need to set up the timing, both before, but most importantly I guess, after I have lifted out the Dizzy to prime the engine. Can anyone advise me on setting the thing up (I have a Haynes manual but would prefer to take someones experience on this). The Dizzy I have is a Lucas "Opus" 35DE8. Its the original type but has been renovated by Jim Robinson of RV8 who assures me it will be fine. I think they had an overheating problem after a while, but this one is in essence a "new" one now. I have a timing pointer on the engine but hear that they are not particularly accurate. Just need the benefit of you guy's experience please!!

Thanks

Martin

[chesterak]

If you do a search of this site you will get plenty of info on RV8 ignition timing. The engine mounted pointer is fine for setting initial static timing, as is the Haynes manual for procedure. I suggest you get a timing (stobe) light so you can get some idear of where your advance is when running. These engine like more static advance than stated in the book. From memory, I set mine at 12 deg static and it advances to about 36. If you mark the pully with snopake (or similiar white) at 10, 20 30 40 deg etc so its easy to see when running. The best way to set up is is on a rolling road....

[martin_t]

Originally Posted by chesterak

If you do a search of this site you will get plenty of info on RV8 ignition timing. The engine mounted pointer is fine for setting initial static timing, as is the Haynes manual for procedure. I suggest you get a timing (stobe) light so you can get some idear of where your advance is when running. These engine like more static advance than stated in the book. From memory, I set mine at 12 deg static and it advances to about 36. If you mark the pully with snopake (or similiar white) at 10, 20 30 40 deg etc so its easy to see when running. The best way to set up is is on a rolling road....

Hi

Thanks for the reply. The main criteria is getting it going to start with!! Once I can set the timing to a state where it will run and can then "fiddle" with it to get it perfect. I just need some advice on the initial setup or is the Haynes enough? I was just concerned that the Haynes manual instruction would not be correct as I have a Holley carb on and a different cam and timing chain.

Regards

Martin

[Big A]

Hi Martin

If i was you I would check the accuracy of the timing marks on the pulley by finding tdc on No1 cylinder, and make sure the timing marks correspond. My mates was 10 deg out.

Regards Alan

[KevinW]

ditto all the above, but as a rank amatuer when i first tried this, its amazing how much 'slop' there is and the engine will still fire, albeit rather badly. I tried following the haynes manaual - seemed to work.

Old Mr Home Tune, that came out to do my daily driver checked it over and was amazed it would go at all. After some 'tut tutting' (I shouldnt be doing this, I only usually work on real cars, used to look after 39PH years ago before Demon Tweaks got hold of it......yes yes), I got a lesson on how to do this and invested in a strobe light.

[pelham939]

Jim's experience ring him up and ask he can only say no - but i bet he doesn't - use the haynes and Jim Robinson if you can get TDC then setting that dizzy is a piece if p**s - if i can do it any one can

Ian - IMHO that is

[kev]

you really need a strobe to do this properly. If you can borrow one then don't forget to remove the vacuum pipe from the dizzy to get the static timing correct. The marks on the crank are usually good enough for Jazz.

If you can't get a strobe then time the dizzy with the cap off; at number one just firing with the timing marks as close as you can get it. Put the cap on and then try to start, when the engine runs slightly turn the dizzy until you get the fastest tickover then turn it back half a smidgeon and lock it off. That will get you fairly close until such time as you can get a strobe and properly mark the crank pulley to the timing pointer.

Kev

[GDmerlin]

Timing marks on the pulley and pointer will be close enough IF they are both original and the pointer is undamaged (bent) best to check it with a depth gauge in No. 1 pot.