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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 26-04-02, 12:11 AM
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Cam Problem

Stripped down my rover 3.5l V8 had it bored out and relined to 3.9l.Bought some new heads and a new Piper 285 cam hoping to make a nice little package when suddenly I realised that I am not sure of the right position to have the engine in. The Haynes manual sayes something about number one cylinder being at top dead centre but no mention of what position to have the cam in. If I have this wrong it will damage the engine and therefore this is not the time to start guessing!
If anyone out there can help me I would be very gratefull as I need to know which position both crank and cam need to be in before I can go any further.Then there is the problem of setting the cam preload but I think I have that one cracked.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 26-04-02, 07:57 PM
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RE: Cam Problem

Thanks Russell. I don't know what I would do without this website.One more small question or two really. I bought a 'Double-chain multi-position cam chain set' and the cam gear has 7 different key ways: 0 in the middle then at 2 degree intervals + or - depending on the direction. Should I use the middle 0 degree for the initial setup ?

Secondly although RPI didn't send me the Timing Disc, I have got hold of one and am not sure exactly how to sort this all out. Any light you could shed on this would be gratefully recived.
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Old 27-04-02, 01:28 AM
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RE: Cam Problem

Tinka,

Sorry mate, two very slight errors in above post. It is late after all!! Should be on a different type of site at this time of night.

When finding true TDC for piston, you should turn clockwise to find 20 thou before TDC angle. Then go past TDC by a bit, and turn Anti-clockwise to find 20 thou after TDC. True TDC is halfway between these angles as stated before. It's a crank bearing clearance thing you see.

The rest of above is correct. Whoops, except peak lift should be at 104 deg. Told you it was late!! Can't do sums when tired. When doing lifter measurements always clockwise to keep chain tight in engine rotation direction.

Hope thats all clear now!

Russell
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Old 27-04-02, 11:59 AM
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RE: Cam Problem

Russell - you are a veritable mine of technical info for RV8's - my hat is off to you. What a great job you must have - need an assistant?
One little point tho' - if you guys used a nice Ford V8, you wouldn't have to clamp your maggy base DTI on with mole grips!!!

Wilf
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Old 27-04-02, 07:07 PM
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conversion to 3.9, was Cam Problem

May I ask where you had the engine re-linered to 3.9, and, if you don't mind telling us, how much did it cost? Reason for asking, I've got 2 3.5 blocks that could do with enlarging, 3.9's (I've got one in my car) seem to run so much stronger.
John

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Old 27-04-02, 07:28 PM
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RE: Cam Problem

Hey - I don't wanna start no iron vs ally discussion, just pointing out one of the advantages of iron!!!

And they still look like molegrips, even tho' someone paid a lot more for them than plain ol' molegrips!! Special DTI kit indeed - molegrips with a bit welded on!!

Wilf
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Old 27-04-02, 08:28 PM
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RE: Cam Problem

I didn't pay for them!

R
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Old 27-04-02, 08:31 PM
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RE: Cam Problem

So would I be a really bad person if I swapped my current Iron Chevy for a Bowtie, nice shiny ally?

Robert
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Old 28-04-02, 08:48 PM
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RE: Cam Problem

And there's me been dreaming of a lovely new 427SO Genesis ally block!!

Wilf
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Old 29-04-02, 01:35 AM
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RE: conversion to 3.9, was Cam Problem

No problem The company I went to is called Racemettle If you ring them on Tel No: 01427 616565 And ask to speak to Darrel ( can't spell think that is how you spell his name ) I'd appreciate It if you mentioned that Martin recomended them to you. They are based in Gainsborough and do open on a Saturday morning.

The work they did on my block was to Chemically clean it cleaning out all the threads in the bolt holes, all the core plugs were removed including the oilway ones so that all oilways could be thoroughtly cleaned. Because the block was Chemically cleaned I had to have new cam bearings supplied and fitted .The block was bored out and relined (the liners I supplied ) the bores were also cross hatched if that's the right term , and the head's were very slightly skimmed.

Now the bad news all the places a rang quoted me about £300-£400 to do most of this work but when speaking to them It seamed as if they wern't really sure what they were talking about which some ok them admitted. Racemettle though do a lot of work on Rover V8 and new exactly what they were talking about whitch was encouraging.The Bill came to £550 but they have also done me a couple of Free favours are very helpefull on the Telephone and were prepared to negotiate on the cost of work carried out .If you have any engine parts (whitch I didn't ) they will consider this.

If you have heard of Rimmer Bros under a different name they do all there engine work ie:- stage heads , crank grinds , rebuilt engines etc .

Hope this is of some help and interest.:7
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