Security How do you do it.

[Jnex26]

Ok I've been reading about the SVA test and people say that some sort of immoboliser should be fitted. and that a battery cut off switch should do.

However i'm planning on using my Cobra replica for more than just the weekly drive. My partner and i want to go on holiday in it.

So apart from the battery cutoff switch is there anyway to immobolise a NON efi ford V8 engine and if so how.

I was thinking something by cobra alarms would be fitting but !! how do you stop someone comming along and just removing it overnight. and starting your pride and joy up.

Thanks

Rob

[SimonP]

Well, you've got mechanical security devices like steering wheel locks, wheel clamps and removable steering wheels.

Next, you've got your electronic immobiliser or combined alarm/immobiliser units.
Basically the installer will cut into your wiring loom to fit one of these units. They require connections to:
Good Earth
Permanent feed (15 Amp)
Ignition switched feed (usually less than 1 amp)
LH Indicator circuit
RH Indicator circuit

They immobilise by breaking the circuits to:
Ignition, fuel pump or injection feed
Starter feed.

All "Thatcham" approved alarms use a single colour of wire (usually black) in an attempt to make it more difficult for the average toerag.
However, on a carburettor engine, it doesn't take a brain surgeon to bypass them. Your best deterrent agaist this is is the bonnet locks, (unlike a production car, you can't pull a bonnet release from the driver's footwell!) and maybe taking the fuel pump relay with you in your pocket!

If you fit an alarm in conjunction with a battery master switch, you have to bypass the master switch with a fused connection, which is just adequate rating to run the alarm.
Any attempt to operate the starter or main electrics will then blow the fuse.

Your insurer may offer discounts for particular types of security device, so discuss it with them. The savings may be equal or more than the cost of the security device.

Hope this helps,

Si

[Kelvin]

Rob,

I was thinking the samee sort of thing, I ended up going for a snap off steering wheel. If they cant steer it they cant knick it. Well it would slow them down. Its not my only deterant but a good start.

I dont know what column the AK uses but if its a ford or run of the mill then http://www.snap-off.com/index.htm is a good start for info.
The only place that does them for jag column is GD.

Hth

Kelvin

[Neil O]

Hi, has anyone fitted a snap off boss to a motalita wheel with a sierra column? Does it push the wheel a lot closer to you or what?
Cheers,

[snowyrm2000]

si is right about what he says as to where the elec. circuits are cut.
it basically comes down to 2 things. what you can do, and what your insurance will give you credit for. to immobilise your car, stick a switch in all the above circuits.
for the insurance, a cat one is good. but this does nothing special.
do you want cheaper ins., or a non nickable car

[TINKA]

Neil I have fitted a snap off boss to a sierra column and yes it does push the wheel out by about 3". There is a way around this though, if you take out the collapsible part and turn up a pice of 10mm ally to act as an adaptor then problem solved. Only other solution is to sink the column into the dash so you cant use any of the stalks any more. Hope this helps

Martin

[Dan]

I fitted a Cobra Alram system to my Sumo. One good thing about fitting an Alarm as you build, is that you can hide all of the wires away.

I have the Cobra bridge 8800 system with optional Level Reference Sensor (Part # 5452) that detects if the car is being jacked up and a Hyperfrequency Volumetric Sensor (Part # 5462) that works better in a softtopped car than the standard sensors

The unit has 2 modules that you hide behind your dash, One contains the brains and the other the immoboliser curcuits. The wires for the immoboliser are all black (They have identifier stickers that you cut off during fitting). It also feature multi grounding (More than one ground wire to the chassis). My dash design is such that the whole front facia would need to be removed to get at the wires. The only vunerable section would be where the wires pass through the bulkhead to the Siren unit, but I have taken care of this by wrapping it in the center of the cars wiring loom. But in the event that these wires are tampered with, The Siren has it's own battery that will power the siren.

The immoboliser has 2 cut curcuits that you can fit to any electronic device. I have fitted to the electric fuel pump and the starter motor. both these are patches in to the vehicles wiring loom are made in places that are not accessible once fully built.

You can also add in switches that will trugger the alarm (Doors, Boot and Bonnet). I suppose you could also add a switch to the pedals as well.

You also get a key flop for arming/disarming. which also has a panic button which I accidently found out. I can honestly say my ears almost bled. Unbelievably you can also add additional sirens to the system.

I have also added a permanent cut off to the starter that is accessed from the engine bay. I was going to add this to the battery but I would then loose the protection of the alarm. If I was going to leave the car for long periods I would attach my Opti-mate to keep it all topped up (Cutting the battery supply once the alarm is armed will also sound the alarm).

It's all very well having this additional protection, I intend to invest in other visual means of protection such as those steering wheel clamps.Although I believe Rob has come up with the best solution to this with a removalable steering wheel

The Tracker system is somthing I would also consider.

Dan ~ http://homepage.ntlworld.com/danny.mann/