Diff Oil Seal Replacement

[Warren]

With much regret I had to split the diff to do the output shaft oil seals.

I stripped the shaft and bearings and pressed in the seal to the carrier. Put the shaft through and tapped the new outer bearing down onto its seat from the other side. Put in the new collapsable spacer and pressed the inner bearing as far as it would go.

Question is this, Is the nut and thread strong enough to pull the bearing home and collapse the washer at the same time? If not how else do you do it? Also is there anyone local that has a deep enough/big enough socket for the job.

Cheers
Warren (very excited, got a Cobra for Christmas!!!):P

[russell_ram]

Warren,

the two bearing outers and outer (flange) inner have to be fully seated before you try to do up the nut otherwise you risk over collapsing the spacer if the force to seat the bearing is higher than the force to collapse the spacer. The inside inner has to move before tha spacer will collapse. As for doing the nut up, the way to do it is to put the nut in the vice and then turn the output flange with a breaker bar (or suitable length of 3"x2"!) between the studs (suitably protected with tape) - you don't nut a socket! The initial load will seem quite high but reduces considerably as soon as the spacer starts to collapse.

Russ

[Warren]

Russ

I have already seated the outer bearing down the shaft and inserted the collapsing spacer. Then placed the inner bearing on the shaft, this I have pressed down until it is sat directly on the spacer, best I can tell anyway.

I understand what you are saying but as the bearing is tight on the shaft the nut has to draw the bearing on as well as collapsing the spacer and I was concerned the thread and nut would be damaged.

Also, how do you ensure the torque is correct with your method as that determines the bearing preload doesn't it?

Cheers
Warren

[russell_ram]

The thread will pull both down, no problem. You don't do the nut up to a torque, so no need to worry what torque you are applying to the nut. What you do is do it up till the end play is just taken up, then measure 'torque to turn' the shaft, which will increase as bearing preload increases. You should aim for about 5-10lbf torque to turn ie stiff to turn by hand. Once the bearings are seated - no endplay - do the nut up (by turning shaft) a little at a time, say 1/8 turn - untill it feels right. Do it up too tight and you've scrapped the spacer cause you can't loosen it after you've overtightened it.

Slowly, slowly, a bit at a time.

Russ