Waterpump to engine thread shafted

[DrFelch]

My rebuilt engine was all wired up ready to go and I added the coolant as the last thing to do. All was well, just ready to turn her over but heard the sound of dripping. It was coming from the top right waterpump bolt. Upon inspection, it appeared to be only just finger tight and the thread was obviously stripped. I pulled the bolt out (without even undoing it !) and sure enough most of the thread was sitting on the bolt. I was under the impression that the bolts had been tourqed by the builder so I didnt check before putting the engine in. Where do I go from here ?

Do I have to remove the waterpump,timing cover and then get a UNC tap in place in the engine ? Drain the oil ? Anything else I should have to do ?

Thanks

Marcus

[paul]

I would seriously look at the rest of the engine if that water pump bolt is anything to go by. even if you just check the torque settings on some visible bolts as it may give you an indication of the rest ie. if you find some more that are loose or stripped then maybe you should consinder a strip down and do a full check.
cheers
Paul

[graham]

Yeah ditto on above

I think water pump removal for a cert, Oil can remain in. Then tap away.

Think I may have a spare stud (long Water pump)I go look if you need it

Graham

[russell_ram]

Marcus,

are we talking one of the little 1/4UNC 1" long pump to timing cover bolts or the 3 ish inch long pump to cover to block bolts?

The pump to cover bolts probably have just enough material to tap out at 5/16 UNC, which you should be able to do in situ, then drill pump to match to take larger diameter bolt.

The two longer bolts at the top each side seal the main pump outlet on each bank to the cyl block face. To do these you'll need to remove the cover. These are also through bolts into the front cylinder coolant jackets (which is why the corrode in!) and should have pipe sealant applied to thread before inserting (any loctite thread lock will do). I don't think there's enough material in the cover to increase bolt dia on these without the risk of breaking out of the cover or making it porous - I would go for Helicoil insert. Pump and cover off I'm afraid.

The reason these strip is that people don't realise how little the torque requirement for a 1/4 or 5/16 UNC bolt into aluminium is - although I'm disappointed that if your engine is pro-built that you have a problem. ;(

Torque for 1/4 UNC is 7ftlb and 5/16 UNC 15ftlb - no more or they'll strip (and use a torque wrench!!!!!).

Russ

[DrFelch]

"are we talking one of the little 1/4UNC 1" long pump to timing cover bolts or the 3 ish inch long pump to cover to block bolts? "

Definately one of the 3inch long cover to block bolts. Unbeliebaly I removed the big fat washer and it went in just enough to catch and then wound in a good 3-4 turns nice and tight ! So I managed to get the engine started for the first time after all ! It sounded as rough as a bare's arse to start with, but after moving the distrib about a tiny bit we had lift off ! Unfortunately after a few minutes, my wife spotted coolant leaks in a few places. The first was a tiny bit around the top of the waterpump (comming from the top of the seal), the second seemed to be from the sump seal (!) and two circual domed bits in the block. I will investigate today. Christ it is loud though...

Marcus

[russell_ram]

Marcus,

well done on finally getting it running. Get a timing light on it ASAP.

As for the leaks, think I might have said before that once the seal has dried out on a used pump they are usually f***ed. The leak from domed bits in the block are probably knackered core plugs - can't believe your builder didn't replace these as a matter of course. As for the sump seal, that is probably water sitting or running along the gasket joint from somewhere else - no water on this joint to leak itself.

Russ

[DrFelch]

Thanks again for your help Russ. Yes, I think you are correct about the water sitting near the sump. Bizzarely today when I started it again, the core plugs seemed fine (!) but the core plugs on the other side started leaking. More worrying though was a squeeking coming from the nearside rockers.

I will get a timing light on it ASAP to get it 8 degrees BDC.

[russell_ram]

Marcus,

squeaky rocker gear is not good! However, if you are lucky (which doesn't really seem to be going your way at the moment!)it will be a pushrod rubbing on the edge of the hole where it goes through the head (I assume you have std rocker covers/rocker gear so it is not a rocker rubbing on the cover - which would be a knocking noise anyway). This is reasonably common even on new engines due to the tolerances in the V, cored hole postion in the head, follower position in the block etc. What you need to do is lift the rocker cover and have a look at the pushrods, there is usually an easily identifiable 'silver' rub mark (normally on one of the back rods). You might want to turn the engine over by hand, so that each valve closes and you can spin the rods to see, although visual inspection of the gaps around the rods will normally give you a good idea which one it is. Then a simple matter of removing the rocker assy/offending rod and carefully filing out the hole making sure you catch ALL the swarf.

If you are very lucky it will have gone away of it's own accord next time you start it!

Russ

[graham]

And make sure it is not an inlet manifold bolt to long that is touching a pushrod.

I had squeaking but believe it or not it was a pulley belt/fan belt. Changed it and then no problem.

Graham

[DrFelch]

It certainly could be the fanbelt I will check. It seems to start every time though and sounds ok apart from the squeek at lower revvs. Questions are as follows :

1. How long should it smoke for ? (baring in mind the longest I have run it is 10 min at 2.5k revs and its -14 in my garage)
2. Whats the easiest way to ensure its running on all 8 cylinders ? Pull a plug lead off and listen to the engine, if no different then dodgy connection ?

Once this bloody engine has been started for more than 20 mins (and the leeks stopped) I can get the body into the garage and onto the chassis after its been sitting outside for the last couple of months !

Cheers

Marcus