Clutch Slipping RV8

[Philip]

Hi all,

just when I thought Id got everything sorted out the clutch appears to be slipping. Once Ive got the clutch up in any gear I can accelerate, decelerate, almost stall the engine and it doesnt slip, but when I try to change gears fast the clutch lags a bit. I.E once the clutch pedal is up the clutch is still trying to bite, it only lasts for around 0.5 a second but it isnt instant. Its a standard Dax setup, hydraulic clutch master and slave. Im guessing the pressure plate is on its wayout, but this is going to be a big job to drop the box off and replace the clutch so am I thinking on the right lines?:} :}
Phil

[callum]

Just check that you have the actuator arm on the clutch slave cylinder adjusted with some remaining free play or you will effectively have the release diaphragm partially depressed - hence the slippage - although your foot is not on the pedal and you are not knowingly de-clutching. :}

[Philip]

I didnt realise there was an adjustment on the slave, I'll climb under it and pull the slave out and have a look, thanks
Phil

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Phil, yes if you have not got an adjustable rod on the slave, pack out the cylinder with a couple of washers/spacers to give you the adjustment required.

I have had a new standard RV8 clutch do that too me before it was bedded in.

Other than that it must be worn center plate or weak pressure plate or both. In either case its a gearbox out jobie!! Replace all three units don't skimp!! (pressure plate/center plate/thrust bearing)Eric.

[dave]

There is a good chance that if you have the same size clutch line as you have for your brakes the fluid will not be able to transfere fast enough and will take that fraction of a second longer to fully disengage the clutch.
If you don't have it already you should try -4 (Dash 4) size clutch pressure line, that will sort it.

[Philip]

Thanks all,

I have got standard brake pipes feeding the clutch, Ill try to get some bigger pipe, where do i get it from, or is it something any local carpart will sell me?

Phil

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Never thought of that one Phil, Dave could well be right there if your using standard brake pipe. Most Auto Factors sell tubing in bigger bore sizes. But you really require something flexible!

Alternately if you have a local pipe firm close by like Spectrum Hoses which we have local here in Bucks, they will make you up the correct length pipe with the right ends, all neatly braided Eric.

[Philip]

I hope he's right, I've got copper brake pipe from the master to a bracket under the car, this then has a flexi on it to the slave. Has the flexi got the right bore or has that got to be replaced as well? Its from a brake system as well!
Phil

[dave]

Hi Phil.
Chances are that the flexi is too small a bore also.
If you contact Think Automotive on 0208 586 1172 they will make you one up out of all braided with the right ends.

If you have the Dax/Girling master cylinder and the same Rover slaves that i use them you will need 3/8" unf banjo at the master and 7/16" unc straight at the slave end. Check first that the slave is 7/16"unc as Rover sometimes used M12X1 I think.
Cost about £30 or so all in.

Good luck.:tu

[Philip]

Hi Dave

the master is from dax, but i dont think its a girling, its got something racing england written on it. Its the larger bore one from dax, i think 7/8". I dont want to remove the pipe, at the moment, to find out what size threads they are, cos I want to go to Stoneleigh in it.
Thanks for the info though, I'll ring them tomorrow if I can find out what size threads they are.

Phil