How hard is it to Change UJ's ?

[Happy Jim]

Hi All,

Sanity check please

I have a drive shaft UJ that needs replacing sometime soon. I had a word with my friendly Garage about changing them (do one do the lot!)and possibly the wheel bearings as well. The've not done UJ's on a Jag before so resorted to their "book of timed jobs" to give me a rough guide.............2.5Hrs per side UJ's, 1.8Hrs per side Wheel Bearings.

8.6 Hrs of labour + parts + VAT, no thanks!

Questions.
1. How hard is it?

2. Do I need a special Jag hub puller or will any generic puller be OK?

3. Is it sensible to change the wheel bearings at the same time (Just because the hub is off) or is this more pain than it's worth?

4. Any hints and tips from those that have done it appreciated.

Cheers all

Jim

[Iain]

UJ's are a piece of cake. I did mine with a vice and a socket (from a socket set). You will need a pair of cir-clip pliers though.:tu

The bearings on mine were not difficult to remove. They couldn't have been since I didn't use a puller

As for whether you should do them or not, that I don't know. Can you feel any wear in them?

[Happy Jim]

Ian,

Did the Hub Carriers come off fairly easily? or was it a pig. The bearings aren't worn but it just seems like a good time to change them while the carrier is off anyway?

Cheers

Jim

[Iain]

The hub carriers came away from the drive shaft quite easily. Just a tap with a rubber mallet.

I used a screwdriver and a mallet to tap the bearings off, just in case you're interested.

[Happy Jim]

Iain,

Rubber mallets, screwdrivers, sounds like a job even I can handle :tu

Cheers

Jim

[daxv8man]

Hi Jim

Have a look at one of this months kit car magazines ,i think it was which Kit ,they have an article on replacing Ujs.

Graham

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Iain the shafts don't part easily on all occasions, as they are often locktited on to the inner casing of the bearing in the factory and when you pull the shaft the bearing comes with it; but if he is is going to replace the bearings it wont much matter Eric.

[osgood]

Contrary Mary

Jim, cir-clip type U/J's are pretty easy. but other types where they are peened over to keep the cap on require a special little fitting kit to get the depth of the outer bearing cap equal on all four sides Eric.

[callum]

The UJs are relatively easy to do - just a question of removing circlips, tapping out the cups, cleaning up then 'in with the new' using grease to hold the needle rollers in place while you tap the cups back in (just check for the odd roller theat 'lies down' at the base of the cup and prevents it going fully home into the drive shaft!)

Much more hassle is knocking out the hub carrier.... because if you can knock it out you shouldn't be able to. It needs a press becasue the splined shaft should be locked into the outer portion to prevent the metal galling and eventually trashing the splines. You do however have to split the shaft from the hub to access the end uj.

I would therefore a) disassemble the drive from the brake disk and withdraw the lower hub pivot shaft (note spacers/shims and location) b) take the hub and shaft to a machine shop or garage to get them to press out the shaft c) get them to measure the hub bearing endfloat (2 to 6 thou or .051 to .152mm)and if all is in order leave well alone d) refit new ujs, completely clean off the splines in both halves and using the heavy duty loctite reassemble on the car. Torque to 100 ft/lb and leave at least 4 hrs for the loctite to harden.
The Haynes manual is the standard idiot's guide.... :tu

[BenBaron]

>(just check for the odd roller
>theat 'lies down' at the base of the cup and prevents it going
>fully home into the drive shaft!)


I will second that, little buggers have a tendancy to hide in the groove at the bottom and then get squashed to bits when the joint is put back together.... be careful x(