383 Starting problems

[Keith Wild]

Since putting my new 383SBC in my AK in the spring I've been dogged with starting problems particularly when hot, i've tried all the stuff suggested, new solenoid, heat shields and lastly a high torque starter motor without much improvement.

I decided to check out the voltage characteristics in the starter circuit and whilst the + rail was fine with around 750mV of drop between battery and starter I have been gobsmacked to find well over 2 volts of drop along the chassis.

I have fixed a heavey duty cable between the starter body and the battery negative and am amazed at how quickly the starter now spins the engine.

Should point out that the car is an AK with the battery in the boot. I shall now try and attach a graph of the voltage patterns

Regards

Keith

[kdavies3]

On my Dax I have the battery in the boot, to date I've never had a problem (when the timing's correct anyway).
I have a heavy cable Battery -ve to the chassis in the boot around 300 mm long. (clean the paint from under the connection and grease it).
The front end is similar with a cable of around 400 mm from the chassis to one of the right hand engine mounting to cylinder block bolts.
This works for me so far. (touching wood)

Keith did you try the remote starter fix?

http://animatedgif.net/flags/-flags-uncat/Wales.gif

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales

[SimonP]

Keith,
I wouldn't have thought it possible to lose so much along a chassis.
But, with a proper test like that, I can't argue.
It would only take a resistance of 0.01 Ohms to drop 2 Volts at 200 Amps!

How are the battery and starter earths connected to the chassis?
Nut/welded stud, nut/bolt, or rivnut insert/bolt?

Did you test for voltage drop between the chassis and the crimp terminal bolted to it at each end?

Simon.