Rust protection

[Elmo]

I have just purchased a ’89 build Dax which I collect next weekend. One of the first jobs I want to tackle is giving the chassis a fresh coat of paint. This leads me onto a couple of questions:

1) How much work and time is involved in taking the body off the chassis
2) Can anybody suggest or recommend the best (brush applied) treatment method/procedure for protecting the chassis.

Any advice for this novice would be appreciated

Elmo:tu

[TINKA]

Hi Elmo, how is the chassis protected at the moment, and is it rusting which is why you want to repaint it. If it is powder coated, then you will be waisting your time doing any thing other than a complete strip of the chassis including engine, diff, brake lines, the lot :} :} :} :} :} because if it has already started to rust, the rust will just spread from under the powder coating that is left on and you will have just wasted your time x( x( x( x( x( . To remove the body would be a mammoth job I think as it was not really designed to happen, as far as I know the GD is the only one which you can comfortably do this to. Personally if there is rust present I would just treat the affected areas.

HTH

Martin :tu :tu :tu :tu

[kev]

I'm having very pleasing results with POR15 paints, their chassis black dries to a nice satin finish is deasy to apply and hides my brush strokes very well. Expensive but worth it.

As in all finishing work plating, polishing or painting; preparation is key to a good finished result and must not be skimped, this really is the secret to a good finish.

http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=24

regards
Kev

[Elmo]

Hi Martin

Thanks for your reply. It looks to me like the chassis was only spray painted originally not powder coated. Surface rust is evident on the underside of the chassis and floor pans.
It was my intention to wire brush the loose paint and rust off then protect is with rust inhibiter, primer and top coat. Taking the body off would obviously make this job easier and enable me to get to all those had to reach areas and carry out a better job, however if this is not practical then I will jack the car up on axle stands and do the best I can on my back;( .

Elmo

[Elmo]

Thanks Kev. I have read good reviews on the forum about POR15, and have decided that this will be the paint to use. From what I understand the paint is only available form Frost, is this correct?

Elmo

[kev]

I've not seen it sold elsewhere. THey do a rust converter inhibitor preventer, I think it may be phosphoric acid, I've used it with good effect, carefully!!

Kev

[kdavies3]

As Martin already said, the Dax body is not designed to be removeed once fitted. It's bonded on with Wurth adhesive and lots of large rivets.
Don't even think about it. The adhesive will be protecting the chassis on the body side so just tidy up up where you can get at it.

http://animatedgif.net/flags/-flags-uncat/Wales.gif

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales

[Bigblock]

Elmo
I am just in the middle of rebuilding my Dax, I built it in 1988. Depends who put you body on and how. I bolted mine on, undid the bolts and then using a cheese wire, flat blade and a good mate cut the Wurth adhesive and lifted the body off, and damm glad I did. Dax chassis in the early days were painted with Hammerite, mine was flaking in the usual areas. The paint actually scrapes off quite easilly, and then sand it off. I did use POR, but if you check it out it is no more that Hammerite, and to avoid that tacky shiny Hammerite black gloss finish Hammerite now make Satin finish, much nicer. If you can get the body off do it.
Happy lifting:tu

[Elmo]

Thanks Big Block

If possible could you advise me what was the extent of mechanical & electrical fittings that needed to be dismantled prior to lifting the body off and how long it took you + plus any time saving tips that you may have encountered in the process.

Like you I believe that taking the body off is the real only way to ensure that all areas are treated.

Once again thanks for your reply:tu

Elmo

[Bigblock]

Elmo
This is a total rebuild, the rover lump went into the wifes MGB roadster with a turbo, I'm now fitting a Ford 460ci. I have also made up a trangulated tube engine cradle and chassis to go within the engine bay and down the trans tunnel to stiffen things up. When I first did the car I saw many things that I thought could have been made better, door hinges, boot hinges etc, I also wanted to sort out the braking and have dual master cyls and get the pedal raito (6:1) right so this is an every nut and bolt jobbie. When I first built mine there wasn't many of us about and I just wanted to get it on the road. Now I can take my time and sort out the little things. Also first time around I had all the shiny bits on it, now it's black interior, just the correct dials and no more, NO RADIO, matt black side pipes, no badges, get my drift. I have just got back all of the silver and coloured (gold) plated items and the vapour blast alloy parts (no more cleaning ally bits, stay clean forever this way)Mail me your number and have a chat if you want.
Anything to help just ask, I may even have some old bits left over you may want.
Ciao
:sm