Dax Body fixing

[BenBaron]

Hi all,

just reading another topic about rust prevention and noticed that BigBlock had bolted his body to the chasis instead of riviting.
Is that a good idea to do if it enables an easier body removal (for painting and engine swap?) or what?

Im obviously at the stage where I could be fixing it soon, so advice on doing that nasty job would also be welcome....



cheers

Ben:tu

[Steve]

dax recommend using sikaflex to glue the body down, as well as riveting - If you use that stuff it is never coming off again....rivets or bolts.

There is loads of room in a dax to work, only takes a couple hours to get an engine out, so I would not worry about it too much - In any event, unless you leave lots of the carpet loose, you won't be able to easily access the rivets or nuts anyway

Making the transmission tunnel removable is relatively easy, and would provide lots of access if you were concerned, but I wouldn't worry


Steve
GDEuro/LS6/T56 in progress
sgullick@waverider.co.uk

[dave]

Ditto to what Steve says.

If you did manage to make the body 'unboltable' it would take you longer to unbolt it than it would to dissasemble the whole car while leaving the body attached.
Also the glueing adds rigidity to both body and chassis.

[BenBaron]

i'll go the easy way then and rivet the sod.......

cheers


Ben:tu

Ps Dave are you at your workshop at weekends or are you normal and dont work silly hours???
Im after a trip down soon to get some SS from you for the engine bay, so I just need to know the best time for you :tu

[TINKA]

Ben, don't think any one has ever called BABE BROOKS }( }( }( }( }( }( }( normal before. What are you after :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar :wewar oh yes some stainless Steel sheeting {-} {-} {-} {-} {-}

Martin :OT :OT :OT

[Bigblock]

Ben, As I bolted my body down I'll give you my thoughts, its a better fixing than a rivit, it can be undone easier (correct word?)than rivits, the bolt will always find a fixing, how many times have you had a rivit miss or pull out. As for taking a long time to undo it took me about a total of 4 hours to completly strip the interior and free the body. Carpets being stuck down? no, As I used to work on vintage and classic vehicles I used a nice thin wire carpet clip, carpets get wet, dirty, want a change un clip them, simple isn't it. I used sikaflex to bond the chassis to the body, simple windscreen adhesive cheese wire cuts through in seconds. And as I one day thought I might go this route, bigger engine (proper Ford one, not a SBC, what's that stand for? Small Block of Cheese?)and making up a tubular integeral chassis to beef up the backbone I glad I bolted it down.

Come and have a look and then you decide, it's you car!:Y

[dave]

>i'll go the easy way then and rivet the sod.......
>
>cheers
>
>
>Ben:tu
>
>Ps Dave are you at your workshop at weekends or are you
>normal and dont work silly hours???
>Im after a trip down soon to get some SS from you for the
>engine bay, so I just need to know the best time for you :tu

Hi Ben.
I'm usually there on Saturdays. Best to ring before you leave.
I have no sheets of stainless at the moment, all that i have is already folded ready for fitting, i could sell you a set if you like.
I'm not sure when i'll be getting some more in in sheet form, could be one week , could be 6 weeks, i just don't know at the moment.

:tu

[dave]

Hi Bigblock.
There is no part on a Dax that should take more than 4 hours to remove, so why spend 4 hours removing the body first.
Also they rivet aeroplanes and ships together without too many problems.
The sealer/glue that Dax recommend is not supposed to come undone and is there to stop any flex causing the GRP to wear away around the rivets.
:tu

[Bigblock]

And?
Read it properly

:}

[BenBaron]

Cheers Dave,

I'll keep pestering you then until you have some sheets in:tu :tu