Remote Solenoid

[Mike]

Help please. Going to remote the starter solenoid but am not sure which connection is which on the solenoid. Any help appreciated

Mike

http://www.cobraclub.com/crcforum/user_files/4159.jpg

[SimonP]

Mike,
Battery terminal on existing starter to stud with spades.
Ignition switch to right hand middle spade
Solenoid terminal on existing starter to other stud terminal.
Earth to solenoid bracket.

The left middle terminal is for ballast bypass if you have ballasted ignition.

Simon.

[Purple AK]

Mike.
The bottom stud on your picture is the feed from the battery, The large spade attached is the main feed to the fuse box. The top stud is power to the starter. The right hand(larger) of the side spades is the feed from the start button. And the left hand ( smaller) of the side spades is the 12 volt feed to the coil if using a ballast resistor.
Sorry, Simon beat me to it, must learn to type faster!
Cheers

[Mike]

Thanks guys
Mike

[Mike]

There appears to be a difference of opinion as to whether the battery terminal on the old solenoid is fed through the new solonoid or there is a feed maintained direct from the battery. is there any advantages? both would appear to work. see attached diagrams
Mike

[Purple AK]

Hi Mike.;(
Confused! If you have a pre-engaged starter with solenoid, Why are you going to a remote solenoid?
Cheers

[Mike]

Chris,
I am a little confused too. I have a 'hot start' problem and heat shield and mini starter motor have not cured it. Everyone who has fitted a remote solenoid swears that it solves this problem. I am not even sure I understand how it works, the original solenoid still seems to sit in the circuit. and yes I have checked all my connections, battery is in good condition, all leads are correctly rated an routed away from heat sources. Any ideas or thoughts would be greatfully received.
Mike

[Purple AK]

Mike.
I'll sleep on it. Probably wake up about 04.00 am with an answer.
Cheers

[SimonP]

Chris (Purple AK),
This remote solenoid (when used in addition to a pre-engaged starter) will only overcome the problems caused by the wiring to the original solenoid (via ignition switch/start button) was too thin for it's length. (too much resistance).
This means that the solenoid may actuate (severe cases, it might not!) but the force produced will be below par.
So, you will get insufficient mesh, and/or poor contact resistance of the high current path between the stud terminals.

If your wiring in the start solenoid circuit is 3mmsq or above, you are less likely to have this problem.
Some production vehicles use 6mmsq and higher for this circuit for this reason.

Mike,
What I described in my original post is the easiest to connect up.

Your Pic.1 is the best solution. This will give you a higher solenoid current, as you have taken the volt-drop along the starter battery lead out of the picture.

Leaving the main battery lead on the existing starter and putting two solenoid contacts (and their terminals etc) in circuit (pic 2) will increase resistance, negating what you are trying to achieve.


Simon.

[SimonP]

Oops! Missed the edit timeslot...

The last paragraph should read...

Putting two solenoid contacts (and their terminals etc) in circuit (pic 2) will increase resistance, negating what you are trying to achieve.


Simon.