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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 17-04-04, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kenilworth, Warwickshire, UK.
Posts: 225
Starting Trouble

Typical isn't it first big weekend out and the b"&&#% wont start reliably. :f :f :f It did run yesterday but more often than not doesn't crank fast enough to start.

While cranking the engine is turning over slowly which is sometimes accompanied with a clatter. x( I assume this is the solenoid or the drive gear not fully engaging

I've got 12.8 volts at the battery (which was on charge all last night) and 11.1v during cranking so I assume the battery is OK.

I've also got 0 ohms resistance between the body of the solenoid and the battery earth.

The engine spins freely without the plugs in and doesn't have the same clatter

Anyone any suggestions, I'm guessing there is a connection somewhere that doesn't like high current

Steve
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 17-04-04, 05:52 PM
kdavies3's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Broughton nr Cowbridge, Vale of Glamorgan, South Wales.
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RE: Starting Trouble

Steve, try using your jump leads to boost it a little.
It could be your battery has died over th winter it's not uncommon.
What engine do you have? If it's a Chevy you could try the remote solenoid mod much discussed.
Also check that your earth leads are all nicely clean and tight and not corroded at all. clean 'em and and vasilene 'em.
I had to jump mine last weekend after not being started for a month or so.
I took her to the Cotwolds over Easter and did a 200 mile trip.
It should be well charged now.:tu :tu

http://www.woodoouk.eclipse.co.uk/Wales.gif

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales
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Old 17-04-04, 06:20 PM
STEVE G's Avatar
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Location: stevenage, herts, uk.
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RE: Starting Trouble

I have to jump mine every so often,that way she dont mind me spending money on the Cobra.
Steve G {-}
GE427-Rover 281ci.(300+BHP)
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Old 17-04-04, 06:46 PM
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RE: Starting Trouble

I wondered if someone would come back with some comment or other.
}( }( }(
http://www.woodoouk.eclipse.co.uk/Wales.gif

Kev Davies
Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
South Wales
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Old 17-04-04, 06:46 PM
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Location: Kenilworth, Warwickshire, UK.
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RE: Starting Trouble

Its allways the difficult ones to find

Its running awain now

Steve
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Old 17-04-04, 08:37 PM
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Location: E Sussex, UK.
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RE: Starting Trouble

clean 'em and and vasilene
>'em.
>I had to jump mine last weekend after not being started for a
>month or so.
>I took her to the Cotwolds over Easter and did a 200 mile
>trip.
>It should be well charged now.:tu :tu


Hi Kev, are we talking about cars here or something else


>
>http://www.woodoouk.eclipse.co.uk/Wales.gif
>
>Kev Davies
>Dax, 383ci Chevy Stroker, Tremec TKO
>South Wales
Paul :tu
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 17-04-04, 08:39 PM
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RE: Starting Trouble

Bugger, looks like Steve beat me to it...

Paul
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 17-04-04, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Burgess Hill, Sussex, UK.
Posts: 316
RE: Starting Trouble

Exactly the same symptons. If it jump starts no problem then 99.5% it is the battery.
Mike
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 17-04-04, 09:29 PM
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RE: Starting Trouble

i can recommend the optima red top batteries,if anyone is thinking of changing,they will sit happily for months at a time and show no signs of losing charge,bit expensive though! :tu
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 18-04-04, 01:00 AM
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Location: Manchester, Lancs, UK.
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RE: Starting Trouble

If the battery voltage is 11.1 when cranking, there's naff all wrong with the battery.

The sort of poor connections we may be dealing with here won't show up on a standard multimeter. A tenth of an ohm is WAY too much!

Best bet is to measure on volts under load (ie when cranking).
You may need an assistant.

Test 1) Meter neg lead to battery neg. Meter pos lead to starter motor casing.

Test 2) Meter pos lead to battery pos. Meter neg lead to starter main pos terminal.

Test 3) Meter pos to solenoid wire (white/red?). Meter neg to starter casing.

Tests 1 and 2 should register zero volts when NOT cranking, less than 1 volt when cranking.
If exceeding 1 Volt, trace back along the circuit path looking for poor (loose or corroded) connections. Perform the voltage test to intermediate points (eg earth cables bolted to chassis and engine) to narrow down the fault if everything LOOKS ok.
Hint: Poor connections will get HOT with this sort of current passing through them.

Test 3 should register 8 volts absolute minimum. If your battery is 11V, I'd expect at least 9.5 volts.

If those tests all pass OK, it's summat mechanical. BUT it definitely sounds like the solenoid de-energising due to low voltage, then energising again beause the motor load has been removed.

Simon.
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