Jag Rear hub/carrier removal made easy!

[madjohnny]

Seen as loads of people have had trouble removing the rear hubs from the aluminium carriers and before I took mine straight to the nearest garage for removal the easy way, thought I'd have a bash myself, as you do!!!

Had a think about it and came up with idea as detailed in the attached photo's which I think detail exactly how I went about it much better than words ever could.

I used the blocks of wood as shown along with a suitable 3/4" drive socket, a piece of angle iron and a length of M12 studding and a handful of nuts and washers.

The two smaller pieces of wood under the edges of the hub carrier were screwed to the bigger blocks.

After applying quite a bit of pressure using the nuts on the M12 studding I gave the end inside the carrier a clout with the hammer and bingo it free'd up and could then be easily withdrawn using the nuts on the studding.

The other one came off exactly the same. Took about half an hour in total.

So before you take it to the garage, give it a go!! :thumb: :thumb:

[dave]

Hi Johhny.
The bit you have done is the easy bit!!!
The problem part is removing the splined inner part that leaves you with where you are at.
Some times the splined parts are glued together (Literally) and will not slide apart, you must have been lucky in this case. On the worst ones you have to put them into a press and even then on some of them the alloy carrier shatters before the splines will separate.

[madjohnny]

Dave, can you explain further?

The splined part appears to be an integral part of hub assy, surely it's only a case of removing the old bearings and pressing on the new ones? Or is it?

From some of the posts I've read some people seem to have trouble just removing the hub (the bit with splines in) from the aluminium carrier assy.

[dave]

Hi John.
Sorry M8, what I should have said is "The end of the driveshaft"....In effect the bit that slots into the slpined bit that you have.
Getting the end of the driveshaft out can be a nightmare.
Did yours come out easy? Just a case of :- Remove split pin, undo big (27mm ish.) castle nut and shaft just slid out?
I've had some easy ones and some impossible ones. The impossible ones have put me off re building axles so much that I buy them in ready done nowadays.
Slight change of subject. The front lower fulcrum pins (Bottom wishbone to subframe) are another one that can be seized in solid and require coersing with an angle grinder or gas bottles.

[Andy302]

Yeah, and its those castle nuts which I cant shift! :angry: I even got a nut splitter but it wasnt big enough, ones that are are silly money!

Im fairly sure that knowing my luck even when I do get the nuts off mine will follow the " hub carriers that shatter" trend

oh bugger!

[madjohnny]

Sorry Dave, see what you mean now!

Fortunately just undid the nut, with a bit of heat and a large breaker bar to persuade them, and knocked the drive shafts out. Seemed simple at the time, obviously struck lucky for once!

Andy, sorry to hear your still having problems with yours, think we have discussed this on another thread havn't we?

Don't know what else to suggest. Is the problem getting enough leverage or holding the driveshaft solidly enough?

If it's just getting enough torque see if you can borrow a 3/4" drive set as you can get a lot more torque with one of these as the bars are so thick there is very little flex allowing all the torque to be used in trying to turn the nut.

If you know somebody who is very good with Oxy they may be able to cut it off for you, had a friend once who cut a bearing shell off a front hub without even marking the hub itself, unbelievable!

[Dutch Paul]

Originally Posted by Andy Roe

Yeah, and its those castle nuts which I cant shift! :angry: I even got a nut splitter but it wasnt big enough, ones that are are silly money!

Im fairly sure that knowing my luck even when I do get the nuts off mine will follow the " hub carriers that shatter" trend

oh bugger!

Try using a sharp chisel to split the nut.
Just make sure it is well supported underneath.
When you have split the nut on one side it should move - if not then split it on the opposite side.

Paul

[Andy302]

John,

Yup, probably did discuss this on a thread a week of so ago, since then to be fair I havent had much time to put to the problem. Im going to borrow a flame gun and give heat a go, also I now have a vice into which I can try and clamp the whole assy. If that doesent work then Ill tap up a local engineering firm for suggestions!!

Cheers