RV8 conversion

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Finally completed the change from Pinto to RV8. Really upset that it took so long, and I missed a lot of good meetings.
Made it to Kimbolton though, and had a great time.

A few techie bits.....

I had to make new engine mounts and weld them to the chassis. I was so concerned about ground clearance that I (stupidly) overlooked height of carb, and room for a decent air filter. This was overcome by trimming down the base horn and cover on a suitable edelbrook unit;- not perfect but it works.

I had a problem finding a rad to suit, and eventually had a triple-row unit made by a local company;- they made a terrific job from a wooden pattern I knocked up. Reasonable cost too (around 250 & VAT). Details of the company can be supplied.

A 5 speed gbox was used and again I had to fabricate new mounts for this too, making sure that the crank axis was perfectly parrallel with the diff pinion axis - tricky.

I used the Sierra clutch cable by drilling the bell-housing opposite to the position for the standard hydraulic slave cylinder. I adapted the release arm to take the nipple at the end of the cable, and made a spacer to take up extra cable play.
The only problem is that the cable has to be fitted before the box is bolted to the engine, but this is no great hardship (could be tricky if I get a broken cable though!!!). The clutch pedal feels fine, if just a little heavy.

I retained the existing pedal box and brake servo which meant that I had to manufacture custom manifolds. To do this I had some flanges flame-cut, and with the aid of a spare cylinder head and lots of bends and pipe, made a complete exhaust system from head to side-pipes. As I didnt want problems with stress and vibration I incorporated two hugely expensive braided bellows type flexible pipes.

Again the Pinto throttle cable was used, but because I am now using an Edelbrook carb it took me a lot of time to make a suitable linkage with the correct lever ratio to get full pedal depression to equal wide-open throttle.

Even with the engine stabalisor bar from an old P6 Rover, the engine moved a little too much for my likeing so I fablicated a second stabalisor rod and bushes (adjustable) between the rear of N/S head and the N/S chassis rail. Now the car has a nice torque rock when revved while standing!

Though I shouldnt have done the next bit, and I will get a pro unit soon, I actually made a suitable prop by welding the rear part of the old Pinto unit to the rear of the Rover prop. The joints of course are at the rear and I have made a strong prop-hoop - just in case.
Strangely I cant break this prop (and I've tried), and there is no vibration up to 80mph! Guess all the very careful measuring, lathework, and lining-up, and welding, may have paid-off (but I'm still going to get a pro' job made so I can relax more!!!!).

I manged to get three Conally hides, and my good lady used her terrific skill to completely re-upholster the interior. I had carpets tailor-made by Martrim - I'd recomend them to anyone.

I started the conversion begining of Feb when I removed the engine from an old Rover P6, and rebuilt it by mid-March. The engine was a tired hunk. I cant understand how it could run with hardly any cam-lobes!
I dropped the comp ratio from 10.5:1 to a calculated 9.3:1 by moving metal from the chambers and piston crowns. Again this was carefully calculated.
Didn't finish the conversion till 2 days before Kimbolton when it passed MOT.

Attached are some images of the engine bay and interior. Hope I've attached them OK.

Time to enjoy before summer finishes!

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[David Large]

Wow,
All that sounds like hard work. Hope it is all worth while. Cobrageoff (on this site ) is currently doing the same.