Fitting the body

[darren]

I thought I had the body fitting all sorted, bonnet on and rear suspension cut outs etc. Then I read a post on here about grinding a strip off the sills about 10mm wide down the entire length to help with door fitting. Is this something that everyone has had to do 'cos I really don't want to bugger up the body by either cutting off a strip and finding that there's not enough sill left to bolt to the chassis or rivetting the front and back down only to have to drill the rivets out to remove the strip along the sill.

I would appreciate any advice, I can't afford to pull any more hair out.

Darren.

Hydraulic clutch fitted - thought it wasn't working - half day of head scratching and tinkering - one big shove - clutch went bang - working perfectly now - bl***y sticking clutch plates

[greenlen0]

Sorry about the change in conversation, but where did you get your Hydraulic clutch and how much did it cost? Not convinced by using a cable one, was it hard to fit? you can e-mail me nick.greenley@bt.com

Thanks

Nick

[darren]

Got it from Magnum (01926 642122) after reading other posts on here about how much more feel you got from it. I think it was £150, a bit pricey seeing as how you send then your pedal box and you get the same box back with a plate welded on, a master cylinder fitted and some piping but oh soooo much better than drilling into the bell housing. The thought of replacing a broken clutch cable put me right off the idea.

The instructions were very easy to follow. I fitted mine as follows -
copper brake pipe from master cyclinder in footwell goes through the hole for the original cable (bit that pokes through the bulk head) sealed in with sikaflex to secure and stop rattles. Pipe drops vertically down the bulkhead and is fixed with securing clips. Copper pipe joins to flexi pipe on a bracket (all supplied) which is rivetted to bulkhead. Flexi pipe runs to slave cyclinder (not supplied but is standard part on gearbox). My reservoir is in the battery tray, as my battery is in the boot, with the supply tubing going through a grommet.

Very easy to fit and works a treat - just bear in mind that if you haven't released the clutch in sime time it'll probably be stuck....like mine.....and waste time thinking its something more serious.

[tonym]

I built my own hydraulic clutch similar in design to the magnum one and the parts alone cost £80, plus i had to buy a slave cylinder as i previously ran a cable set up. As far as the body goes, then the standard way is to cut a tapering strip starting at 20mm to zero. hth :thumb:

[paolo]

The advice I've read is to remove a wedge shape, start 10mm or so at the front and taper to nothing at the back.

If you put the body on you'll find it's sort of wedge shaped out the mold and the front of the sills will be pressing against the bulkhead while the back sticks out 3-4inches.

Having said that - I didn't trim anything off my body and did alright with it. I needed another pair of hands to push the rear sills in and hold them while I drilled an bolted, but it's turned out fine.

If you've got the energy and willing volunteer to put the body on, measure up and remove it again before trimming and refitting then it's probably worth a go, it will make fitting the doors a bit easier (though not a lot in my opinion).

[john cohen]

:drive: I trimmed my sills and all fitted ok.:thumb: As far as i can remember tony at pilgrim said this MUST be done . So as no strain on the body !!

[darren]

Thanks for that, I'll have to put it back on and measure it I think.

[Bernie]

Hi Darren

Check out this thread -

Help!

B

[Kevin W]

Hi,
I discovered this after fitting the body, What a pain.
Actualy it isnt that bad. Here's a solution if you've already pinned front and back of the body tub.

Give the sill a good yank in fornt of the rear wheel arch and you'll find it can be pulled out quite a long way without any harm - its very flxible. I beleive the same principle is applied when fitting cabs to HGVs. Prop sill wide of the body with a bit of 4x2. Mark up the line you want to remove with a magi-marker or similar. Get out the angle grinder, gloves mask and gogs and an old cutting disk. Run the angle grinder long the edge. Rub over edge with some course sandpaper. Remove prop. Job done.

Thats what I did anyway. It was pretty easy, I was just worried about taking too much off, so had to have several goes,...and then took too much off anyway, so had to bolt on a little plate onto the chassis at the rear. The assymetric nature of the body tub meant that I had a lot more pulling out of the sill to do on one side compared to the other to make the doors nice'n'flush, hence the extra corrective surgery. But you have this litte pleasure to come yet .

Kevin