Keeping warm in a Sumo

[Keith S]

Hi Guys, now that winter is here i thought i would share how I have improved my heater.
My Sumo RV8 has the standard Mini heater. Whilst the SVA inspector thought it was great that by switching on the fan I could demist the screen I wanted a little more.
I fibreglassed flexible hose on to the upright vents beside the front overiders and ran it up both sides inside the inner wings through the fibreglass part of the bulkhead to behind the dashboard. These are then joined in to a "T" which is on the top of the chassis. I then made an adapter in to the big flexible pipe (available from Rover dealer) which fits on to the input of the heater unit.
The result is that I now have a positive air flow when the car is in motion without having to put the fan on. You have to take care when making up the adapter as when in position it's a bit tight behind the speedo. The flexible pipe was obtained from a garden pond specialist, as was the "T" piece!
Went out in it yesterday with the roof and sidescreens on, caught in torrential rain, water ingress minimal and lovely and warm.
The final touch will be to put a water valve in circuit to restrict the flow of water to the heater, allowing control of the temparature.
You have to link the two water hoses together in the engine bay and then take two "T"s off to the heater as water needs to flow round this circuit when the thermostat is closed.
Hope this helps to keep you guys warm,:sm

[Dan]

Hi Keith,

Read your post with interest. Although your point about linking the 2 water hoses together in the engine bay has got me concerned. As I have fitted a restricting remote valve (An inline Butterfly type) to the hose from the pump. I didn't think that it would be a problem fitting it where I have as the circuit is only used for the heater. Am I missing the point???


With my heater setup I choose a new unit from Europa that has 4 outputs for which I've run 2 up to the windscreen and one either side of the cockpit. The heaters 3 way motor can belt out the heat. The controls for which have been mounted into a recess on the drivers side of the central console along with the remote push/pull heater valve control. Fitting butterfly heater blowers from an old mini to the cockpit vents allows me to control the amount of puff in to the footwells. The setup has worked well so far - The only draw back has been the price of the Unit from Europa.


Dan

[Keith S]

Hi Dan,
I was going to just fit the water valve in line but when I mentioned this to Progress Engineering in Maidstone they all shook their heads and said I shouldn't do this.
They are Rover V8 specialists and are very helpfull and knowlegeable chaps.
They asked if I had a thermostat by pass valve fitted.
Pass on that.
Mine is bog standard 1978 SD1. they said that when the thermostat is open it would be OK, but during the warm up period the water needs to circulate through the heater pipes.
Obviously during this time if the valve happens to be closed the system will become pressurised with the associated catastrophies!.
I would take it from this that the Rover SD1 used a "flap" system within the heater as opposed to a valve to regulate the heat within the car, however my Haynes maual makes no mention of this.
Interesting though.........:tu

[Dan]

Thanks Keith for the update.
May explain why my Top heater hose exploded whilst at the MOT Testing station some months ago. In this weather, I have been running the car with the valve in the open position - allowing the water to circulate. So is a T prior to the valve that rejoins the return to the back of the inlet manifold the answer?

Dan

[Keith S]

Dan,
I think that this would certainly explain your exploding heater hose!!!
As I understand it the way forward is to link the heater hoses and run two "T"s off, one to each heater hose going to the heater matrix.
I have found that 15mm copper pipe (as used in domestic water systems) fits nicely inside the standard rubber hose.
So I think a couple of "T" pieces from my plumbing assortment might do the trick nicely.(Obviously soldered type not the compression variety)!