Yet another RV8 clutch problem......Help !

[milner]

Not only this this my first kit car, it's also my first clutch, so please bear with me. I've got a MK3 Sumo with RV8 & SD1 5sp gearbox.

The leaflet that comes from Pilgrim seems quite easy, and I've purchased a 1985 Ford Granada clutch cable ( with white ends ).

From reading the Pilgrim leaflet, I've drilled out the bellhousing to fit the clutch nipple/cap through. But this is where things seem to differ from other postings on this site.....

I've taken the cable in from the outside, leaving a white plastic bit butted upto the outside of the bellhousing. I've then drilled a hole in the fork & fabricated a sort of clip to slip over the cable and hold the nipple/cap firmly in place on the fork. All seems to work well but I'm not yet ready to fire the engine up to test.

All the other postings and home pages seem to describe the outersleeve in a c-shape making the movement, yet with my configuration the outer cable stays still and the inner cable moves pulling the fork which pivots the bearing.

Comments and reasurance more than welcome please, I'm having enough trouble getting the engine in without having to get it out to change later. On that note has anyone got any advice/photos on which holes to use on the universal engine mount supplied by Pilgrim ?

[perky]

I set up mine up as follows,

Feed the clutch cable through the front of the bell housing, through the opening normally used to attach the slave cylinder. Pass the inner cable through the clutch fork and through the back of the bell housing (having drilled a hole) and then secure the inner cable to the back of the bell housing - using a bracket attached from the outside rear to secure the cable. What you should now have is the outer cable butted up to the clutch fork.

Your next challenge will be to get the cable pressure correct. This is trial and error, for example Pilgrim state that you will need to use the clutch bulk head extension tube (supplied with your kit) and a clucth pedal pawl from a Transit (it gives a longer throw) but I did this and found that the pressure was heavy and eventually ended up stripping the teeth on th pawl. So I have mine set up with the standard sierra pawl (yellow one) and no extension tube and it works fine.

Hope this helps

Dave

' and it was going oh so well '

[milner]

Thanks Dave, I've seen a few pics on the web of cars done like this, which is why I'm a bit concerned. I got the leaflet on 'how to do' from Pilgrim on Xmas eve, and it differs. I'm hoping it's a new improved way.

IF I'm reading the leaflet right, they recommend feeding the cable in the other way, ie from the outside of the bellhousing, then fixing the inner cable ( with a fabricated bracket ) to the fork. This method seems to make more sense as when operating the foot pedal it will pull the inner cable which in turn will pivot the fork on the other end of the cable.

What's worring me is no one else seems to have done it this way, all the other postings seem to feed in from where the slave cylinder used to be and then operate in a c-shape using the outer cable to push onto the fork, this in comparison seems a bodge job ???

Jon

[tonym]

I spent a lot of time getting my clutch right (as previous posts will tell you) in the end after having the gearbox out five times and the clutch off four times i'm using a the new quadrant with no pilgrim extension piece. As dave (perky) said it's trial and error but trust me the system works well for me. :tu

[Bernie]

I'd like to recommend what I think is a much better solution (again) -

http://www.cobraclub.com/crcforum/dc...g_id=932&page=

[m eeley]

As previously discussed my preferred solution was hydraulic...

see

http://www.cobraclub.com/crcforum/dc...sg_id=611&page



>Not only this this my first kit car, it's also my first
>clutch, so please bear with me. I've got a MK3 Sumo with RV8 &
>SD1 5sp gearbox.
>
>The leaflet that comes from Pilgrim seems quite easy, and I've
>purchased a 1985 Ford Granada clutch cable ( with white ends
>).
>
>From reading the Pilgrim leaflet, I've drilled out the
>bellhousing to fit the clutch nipple/cap through. But this is
>where things seem to differ from other postings on this
>site.....
>
>I've taken the cable in from the outside, leaving a white
>plastic bit butted upto the outside of the bellhousing. I've
>then drilled a hole in the fork & fabricated a sort of clip to
>slip over the cable and hold the nipple/cap firmly in place on
>the fork. All seems to work well but I'm not yet ready to fire
>the engine up to test.
>
>All the other postings and home pages seem to describe the
>outersleeve in a c-shape making the movement, yet with my
>configuration the outer cable stays still and the inner cable
>moves pulling the fork which pivots the bearing.
>
>Comments and reasurance more than welcome please, I'm having
>enough trouble getting the engine in without having to get it
>out to change later. On that note has anyone got any
>advice/photos on which holes to use on the universal engine
>mount supplied by Pilgrim ?

[milner]

Thanks folks.

As I've already drilled out the fork, I can't use any of the cable adaptors ( if only I'd asked before hand )

I've been under pressure to take the lifting tackle back that I borrowed over Xmas, so I'm just going to have to take a risk with the 'dragster' set up I've put together. Although, I suspect this i'll be a temporary arangement.

My engine is quite far forward, so I can see the upper bellhouing bolts from the engine bay. Hopefully I can just drop the gearbox next winter ???

Fingers crossed !

Jon

[tonym]

My gearbox went in and out about four times before getting the clutch right so don't worry about taking it out, it's quite easy :tu

[Keith S]

Jon,
Here are some pics showing the clearance front and back on my engine. As you can see, it's tight. I have had the gearbox out twice, it's no problem at all apart from the weight of the beast.
the rubber mount is fitted to the engine mount bracket in the second from front hole.
Hope this helpsx(

[breskit]

I have just sent off my pedal box to Magnum Engineering to have a remote master cylinder & reservoir fitted. Apparently the m/c fits inside the car, the reservoir inside the engine bay. I had the standard Rover m/c but could find anywhere to locate it, unlike Mr. Eeley above. Will post some pics when it arrives back.

Cheers,
Tony B
---
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tony.breski