remote oil cooler/ filter

[Steve Faithful]

Gents
I want to fit an oil cooler to my RAM and am trying to work out how to plum it in.
I have a Chevy 350 with under car exhaust, which makes it hard to run the pipes forward along the engine, But not impossible, I have just enough space if I hold the pipe against the sump.
I would like to mount the filter on the left-hand head.

can any one advise if they have put anything like this in their car and what parts they have used.

PS is everyone using a 16-row cooler?

Any info much appreciated.

Regards
Steve

[bogster]

Hello Steve,

I'm not sure what type of chassis the ram has but on my Dax de dion I ran my jic 10 lines along the lower nearside rail (one line above the other). Once I was in front of the engine I curved the lines inwards to the center of the chassis and connected them to my oil thermostat. I came off the stat with 90 degree elbows and took one line around each side of the radiator. Might help, might not. :drive:

Here are a couple of pics.

I used a sandwich plate between the oil filter and engine block.

I think I used a 16 row cooler I'll double check and confirm. Speedflow are very helpful for fittings and hose, etc. Infact you can get the cooler from them as well.

[titch]

hi steve,reference wanting to fit an oil cooler to a 350 chevy i have the same engine in my dax a performer circa 420 hp. 3 engine builders have told me including re-power and race tech cobras to take the cooler off as it can do damage as the oil never really gets hot enough. This is did i took their advice ans the car runs great, they told me instead to add a bottle of slick 50 to the engine oil.save yourself alot of trouble and an engine.
regards
Ian

[bogster]

Hello Titch,

I think that's a bit over the top! All these cobras with oil coolers on them.....thats a lot of damaged engines. You're right in the sense that the oil should not be going through the cooler all the time.

Steve,

If you fit a thermostat in the lines between engine and cooler you will be allright. The oil should never go through the radiator unless it gets hot enough to allow the thermostat to open.

:drive: :thumb:

[dingocooke]

Best thing to do with slick 50 is chuck it in the bin, I wouldnt put it in my lawnmower.
If additives like that were of any use dont you think the oil companies would be putting them in?
Im sure 'oilman' on here will explain why, or search for his posts, hes explained before.
My Ram (tuned Ford 302) had a remote oil cooler with stat, worked a treat, oil temp got up to 80C in about 5 miles, stat opened and closed to keep it there all day long.
I really do wonder about some 'engine builders advice' sometimes

[titch]

each to there own i put slick 50 in all my vehicles including commercial adn i have just got 300,000 miles out of a renault traffic van which overheated twice in its life, but didnt blow up, but did boil the engine oil.and yes i have got it in my lawnmower.£25.00 at Halfords is better spent than £7k for a decent quality build engine, but then each to their own opinion.
regards
Ian :drive:

[bitsilly]

Steve, I have a spare oil cooler matrix which is unused. It has different fittings to the aeroquip ends which I bought from a supplier who doesn't trade any more, so it was cheaper to buy a different cooler than ditch the fittings!
I am going with a thermostatic sandwich plate as there's plenty of room for it and if not, use a smaller performance filter.
Dave brookes says he has fitted loads and none have gone pop. PM me if you want the matrix.
Ed

[dingocooke]

Its pretty well known that the main ingredient in Slick 50 (and all the other engine oil 'wonder additives') is 50 sae engine oil (so it feels slippery in your hands when the customer feels the stuff) some dye, and a little PTFE.
Trade name of PTFE is 'Teflon' registered to Du Pont, who are the worlds biggest manufacturer of PTFE.
DuPont reccomend that it is not used in engine oil, but of course DuPont have not been involved in the 'secret tests' that the additive boys talk about!
Smoke and mirrors; if it was any good FoMoCo et al would be adding it to their vehicle's oil specs.
The examples of vehicles going huge mileages are a testament to great servicing, superb modern filtration, and incredibly good materials developement; not to mention the leaps made in manufacturing tolerances in th e last 10 years.

Glad your happy with it, but the reality is the money's probably better spent on an extra oil or filter change.

[Steve Faithful]

Gents thanks for the info.

I currently have a shopping list for the following
16 row cooler (1/2 BSP fitting)
Chevy bolt on take off plate
Remote filer bracket
Oil stat (i.e. thermostat)
Pipe flexible 1/2"
Lots of 90 degree and straight connectors

Ed will contact you later, but I have seen plenty of units for sale on E-bay for about £30-£40 which seams good value.

I am still have 2 main concerned, 1) running pipes between the exhaust and the sump, I have thermal rapped he down pipe but only have an @ 50mm wide gap to fit it all in.
And 2) I need to attach this run to the sump bolts, which does not make it easy as there is very little room.

I was thinking of making this run out of solid aluminium tube, but have not seen anything explaining connections at either end (other than flaring each end and using jubilee clips - not very professional)

Cheers Steve

[bitsilly]

That looks an expensive way of doing it IMHO.
Something which bothered me about a remote position thermostat was how does hot oil ever get to it to open it (or do they have a remote sensor?), so I went thermostatic sandwhich plate, then connectors, then hoses, connectors and the matrix.
Are you aware how much lots of connector cost?
As I mentioned, I do not know what type of fitting my spare matrix has so you would have to take it with you when you buy the fittings, if you wanted it. It is 16 row, silver, not black.
With the ones on Ebay, if I was you, buy one before you buy the fittings and take it with you when you do to ensure they fit! Or you'll do a me!