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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    No longer Rue de Merde
    Posts
    746

    FE Engine queries

    Whilst quite a few of you will no doubt be out driving in the sunshine, I am in the garage working away.
    I have a couple of general questions which I hope someone out there can help me with. I've not worked with FE's before and want to get the engine bay connections correctly routed before dropping the motor in for the final time.

    Referring to photo 003 My questions are 1) There is a remote oil line take off plate fitted to the engine and on the plate there is a small grub screw, is this where the oil pressure switch is located? 2) The sump has a blanking screw in the top of it, can I use this for the capilary oil temperature sensor? 3) The hole in block next to the oil take off plate is where I need to put a new dip stick, any supplier suggestions? I caught my leg on the original dip stick when walking past the engine and snapped it in two. Doh!

    Referring to photo 007 the question is, what is/could this smaller threaded sump take off point be for?

    Referring to photo 005. I want to get a better quality water drain tap. Is something more robust available?

    Referring to photo 008. My engine came with these Acel HT leads. Are they good enough for IVA or will I have to replace the set?

    Thanks in anticipation Ian
    Crendon No 46 - Southern Automotive 452 cu in BBF & Tremec TKO - Starting with 510Bhp and we'll take it from there.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Hi Ian,
    I'm just about to go out in mine, but I'll answer your questions before I go.

    Question 1: Yes, this is where the oil pressure sender goes.
    Question 2: Yes, this is where the oil temperature sender goes.
    Question 3: Any of the UK American engine suppliers/builders should be able to supply a new dip-stick.
    Photo 007: This is an alternative dip-stick location and is where I have mine.
    Photo 005: The one you have is fine and fit for purpose. In all likelihood, you won't ever use it as there are easier places to get to to drain some water off e.g. the bottom of the rad.
    Photo 008: They are good quality coil-wound plug leads and must be used if you also have an MSD ignition system. Dave Brookes is putting a car through IVA with those leads on, so I don't think there would be a problem because he would know if there was.

    I hope that helps. I'm off for a drive now.

    Paul

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Devon
    Age
    54
    Posts
    7,767
    Ian, if you use the top of the sump for oil temp, be aware that it may read low on the motorway as it is in the airflow. Mine does this.
    The new sump guard I am making will hopefully cure this.

    I assume you are fitting the remote oil filter jobby?
    If so, you may need a different take off plate from SA. The one you have is difficult to get the fittings into as they are too close together. They sent me a different block with one hole in the side and one in the face.
    I can take a pic if you need it.

    Not sure how Paul has done his in this area, maybe a different solution?
    2003 Dave Brookes Dax 350ci Chevy SB.
    2008 Crendon 462ci Ford Sideoiler No.43
    2012 Crendon 351ci Ford Cleveland No.24
    2019 Crendon 445ci Ford FE No.66

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Quote Originally Posted by Neil O View Post
    Ian, if you use the top of the sump for oil temp, be aware that it may read low on the motorway as it is in the airflow. Mine does this.
    The new sump guard I am making will hopefully cure this.

    I assume you are fitting the remote oil filter jobby?
    If so, you may need a different take off plate from SA. The one you have is difficult to get the fittings into as they are too close together. They sent me a different block with one hole in the side and one in the face.
    I can take a pic if you need it.

    Not sure how Paul has done his in this area, maybe a different solution?
    I didn't use the SA supplied block as Kirkham provide a very nice unit with their remote oil cooler kit machined from aluminium and with an o-ring gasket. I think my SA block has both connection on the same face, otherwise you could have had that one.
    Neil, which dip-stick hole is used on your engine, because they seem to vary with different engines supplied?

    Paul

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    No longer Rue de Merde
    Posts
    746
    Neil and Paul, thanks for the info.

    Neil if you could send me a photo of your take off block I can get an idea of how it is different to the SA one. Do I have to go back to SA or can I get one in this country?
    I was going to add a stainless steel plate in front of my engine to act as a 'sump guard' (would make a noise at first sign of reduced ground clearance) so that could also act as heat shield to the canton sump.

    Ian
    Crendon No 46 - Southern Automotive 452 cu in BBF & Tremec TKO - Starting with 510Bhp and we'll take it from there.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Whilst the oil temp might read a little low, I don't think it should be of real concern as your are unlikely to have overheating problems at speed on a motorway unless you're really thrashing it and your water temp gauge will give you early warning of any pending problems.
    In fact, you are much more likely to experience over-cooling problems with an oil cooler. I had to blank off my oil cooler driving to Le Mans to try to get teh temperature up a bit.
    If my spare adapter plate is suitable, you're more than welcome to it.

    Paul

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Hi Ian,
    I've looked at the pictures in your gallery and the engine looks great. Is it a stroked 428?
    My only comment would be regarding the clutch bell-housing. I would strongly advise you to consider a scattershield of one kind or another. You have a big powerful engine, capable of generating huge loads and it is not unheard of for clutches or even flywheels to let go; and when they do go, they go is spectacular and dramatic fashion. Now consider that your ankles are level with the flywheel and it doesn't take much imagination to picture the possibilities. A cast bellhousing like the one you have will offer little if any resistance to an exploding flywheel assembly. A steel rather than cast flywheel will reduce the risk, but you still have the clutch to consider.

    My remote oil filter adapter plate is different to your. If you can measure the distance between the centres of the outlets, I'll go and measure mine to see if there is any difference and if there is, you can have mine if you want it.

    Regards,
    Paul

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    north west
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
    Hi Ian,
    I've looked at the pictures in your gallery and the engine looks great. Is it a stroked 428?
    My only comment would be regarding the clutch bell-housing. I would strongly advise you to consider a scattershield of one kind or another. You have a big powerful engine, capable of generating huge loads and it is not unheard of for clutches or even flywheels to let go; and when they do go, they go is spectacular and dramatic fashion. Now consider that your ankles are level with the flywheel and it doesn't take much imagination to picture the possibilities. A cast bellhousing like the one you have will offer little if any resistance to an exploding flywheel assembly. A steel rather than cast flywheel will reduce the risk, but you still have the clutch to consider.

    My remote oil filter adapter plate is different to your. If you can measure the distance between the centres of the outlets, I'll go and measure mine to see if there is any difference and if there is, you can have mine if you want it.

    Regards,
    Paul
    Didn't think they ever made a cross-bolted 428.
    Mike

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    To be honest, I didn't look at the cross-bolts, it was the press-in core plugs that I noticed. But you are right.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Devon
    Age
    54
    Posts
    7,767
    Paul, my dipstick is just above the oil take off plate/block.
    I too have taped over my oil cooler.

    Ian, I got my take off plate/block from SA. Just give them a call and they'll send one over. Mine was free.
    It has a hole facing forward and one facing outwards. Talk to Lyle if Bill isn't there.

    Hang on for a bit before you make a sump guard. I'm in the middle of the process myself. I have a lightweight pattern already to fine tune, then I'll get the pucker one made.
    I'll post some pics when it's all done, but maybe I can get a price for the guy making up two or three. I could always just send the pattern on to anyone who wants it.
    I'm going for a long guard, from the front cross member to just past the bellhousing lip. I have found that when you get the front wheels over a speed hump, the sump and/or the bellhousing lip are the things that take the hit. I also have to drive along roads with deep grass in the middle to get to my house and stones are hiding in there quite often.
    2003 Dave Brookes Dax 350ci Chevy SB.
    2008 Crendon 462ci Ford Sideoiler No.43
    2012 Crendon 351ci Ford Cleveland No.24
    2019 Crendon 445ci Ford FE No.66

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