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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Ironbridge, Shropshire, UK.

    First engine start!

    Hi Guys

    Im just about ready for first engine start on rebuilt Ford 302 engine.

    I will need to remove the distributor (which has already been statically timed by Repower)to insert the oil pump priming tool - will their be a problem fitting the dissy back in the same position?

    I understand that we will need to run the engine for 30 mins initially without stopping it to bed cam shaft etc - if we have to stop engine for any reason during this initial run, will this do any damage?

    Will the engine rattle when I first start - hydraulic lifters etc - or should it sound normal straight away?

    I was wondering if I should put some upper cylinder lubricant down the intake prior to startup as engine has been standing for 18months since rebuild.

    Any tips would be appreciated


  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom

    RE: First engine start!

    Hi Stu,
    before you remove the dizzy remove the cap and note the position of the rotor accurately, also scribe a line on the base of the dizzy and a corresponding one on the manifold, this should allow you put it back exactly in the same position.
    Obviously DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE /CRANK until you put the dizzy back.
    It may be wise to put a little lube down the plug holes and turn the engine a few times by hand.
    Dont't know much about 302's but most hydraulic tappets will rattle for a while when you start up I have known some take as long as 20 minutes to fully bleed the air out.
    I don't see why any harm should be done by stopping the engine if you have to, watch your oil pressure and water temp. Maybe remove the thermostat for a while until the engine is run in a little. it will be tight and run hotter than normal for a while.

    Ps I fired my 383 Chevy up for the first time last Friday :7 :7 :7 :7

    Best of luck!

    Kev Davies
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible FOR SALE
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Leicestershire, UK.

    RE: First engine start!

    Aah, I remember it all so clearly albeit thru' rose tinted specs. Its now 8yrs this november since I was there. What has been said already is correct. If you are careful with the position of the dizzy then theres no problem with priming the oil pump using the priming tool.On starting, the tappets may sound like a bag of nails for a short time & only fully quieten down after you are on the road, but dont fret- the sound of the monster going will drown them out anyway! I'm sure it doesnt really matter about running for 30mins to start with. A lot of people (myself included) just run it for a few mins. to check all is well & nothing leaks. I've subequently looked at my cam when sorting the heads 3Kmiles later & it was faultless
    Finally dont forget the video camera & fire extinguisher.

    Best of luck

    (It'll only be a 5 minute job)
    Richard (-the one with 2 mad Wheaten Terriers)
    Ex-GD 325bhp RV8 builder/owner

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    On the naughty step

    RE: First engine start!

    Assuming you have a non-roller-follower cam, you really should follow the cam manufacturer's cam break in procedure. Not doing so can only increase the chances of wiping out a lobe or two, it's not worth risking it.

    Because of the need to run the engine continuously for 20 mins at 1500 - 2000 rpm, you must make sure that all the cooling hoses are secure, that your rad fans run OK, and be ready with a hose to play cold water over the rad to stop it overheating - it's a severe test of a cooling system!

    ALso a good idea to have a fire extinguisher or two handy.



    Crendon has left the building................bright yellow Stag has landed.

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