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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,337
    Hi Claude3c, the reservoir has 3 separated chamber's but you may or may not have noticed that there are "brake" fluid symbols on 2 of the chambers leaving the unmarked chamber for the clutch. A friend had the same reservoir and he too had to make a bracket but turned his side on so the cap cleared the bonnet opening. Thanks Lee
    .............never drive faster than your guardian angel.

    cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/633 - this is the link to my build photo's you have to put w w w . h t t p : / / in front of it!!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brackley, Northants, England.
    Posts
    826
    I don't want to be a killjoy or over critical of anyone and I always like to see things that owners have carefully hand made for their Cobs but one thing I'm a little paranoid about is Brake fluid. I saw a demonstration once of petrol being poured on an exhaust manifold. There were clouds of what looked like steam and an obnoxious smell but no fire. (I've had this happen myself on a Mini when the float stuck and piddled petrol on the exhaust it scared the crap out of me). The demonstration was repeated with Brake Fluid and there were instant flames the conclusion being that Brake Fluid is far more dangerous than we generally realise and more likely to cause a fire on a hot exhaust than petrol.

    ANT661236 at Post 8 has done a nice bit of work to solve a problem but what worries me is the sight pipe that looks like Neoprene Hose. If it is, Brake fluid makes the clear hose I use for Brake Bleeding go soft so it clearly affects it in some way and I'm not sure what happens long term with the stuff. I would strongly suggest keeping a very close eye on it as it looks pretty close to the manifold. I would hate to see anyone's hard work go up in flames.

    Denis

    If you take something to bits often enough, eventually you'll have two of them......


    GD427E039

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Hampshire
    Posts
    160
    Denis, you are 100% correct and this is something I'm keeping an eye on. I'm not 100% sure I actually need a viewing window (looking at most modern cars all you can see is the cap) so if this shows even the slightest sign of leaking it'll be removed and a different front welded on.
    Build Diary...

    http://www.antscobra.co.uk

    Dax 427 [De Dion], 351 Cleveland, Edelbrock Heads, Cam & Inlet, Holley Carb, TKO500, 3.58 Powerlok
    Now IVA'd, MOT'd, Taxed and Registered - Painted and Finished (Well Nearly !)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Cambridge
    Age
    36
    Posts
    1,189
    Bloody hell ant that puts my reservoir arrangement to shame!

    I kept mine separate to the clutch, I used the CBS dual outlet version. The filler is on one side of the rectangular reservoir so I made a very simple bracket from a strip of 2mm thick ali, stood off by about 10mm or so from the back of the engine bay so you can get to the filler opening with the bonnet open. It doesn't win any prizes for shiny polished beauty but it gets the job done.



    Note: the hose out the bottom of the clutch reservoir is now a LOT shorter and neater.




    regards

    Dave

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Southwater, West Sussex
    Age
    43
    Posts
    10,021
    I used the Dax supplied reservoir in my car and the supplied bracket. The bracket I got was a bent piece of aluminium with two holes in it drilled to match the two lower pipes on the plastic bottle. All you do is drop the bottle through the plate then push the pipes on to sandwich the bracket between the bottle and pipes and hold it all in place. I may have added a dollop of sealer under the bracket to hold the bottle in place as well, can't remember now.

    The aluminium bracket couldn't be bolted direct to the bulkhead as the lid couldn't be removed so it was mounted on stainless tubes with long nuts and bolts right through the bulkhead. The lid is just under the lip of the body but it can be removed quite easily.

    I later made a stainless cover for the bottle. It was a simple stainless sheet thing folded and welded down the corners. A hole was cut in the top so it can be dropped over the reservoir then the lid holds it in place again.

    Craig.




    Built a Dax once, Long time ago, painted it blue, original huh...?

    http://www.cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/ppuser/714/username/craggle

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,683
    Very Nice Craig

    What injection system is that ?

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tavistock, Devon
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,341
    Craig, that's really being rotten!! Fancy posting that up to make us all jealous. What an absolutely beautiful engine and bay. I am hoping to take my engine out over the winter as it needs new core plugs but even with all my ideas of cleaning it will not look anything as good as that. You must be very pleased.
    Cheers,
    Murray


    That's the trouble with you Sailors, long hair, quick zips and, Oohh, look at the size of that!!

    If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brackley, Northants, England.
    Posts
    826
    Quote Originally Posted by Ant661236 View Post
    Denis, you are 100% correct and this is something I'm keeping an eye on. I'm not 100% sure I actually need a viewing window (looking at most modern cars all you can see is the cap) so if this shows even the slightest sign of leaking it'll be removed and a different front welded on.
    I slept more soundly last night knowing this.

    You could try using a bit of PTFE/Teflon hose as this is resistant to brake fluid. If you want to try some I may be able to get you a short length if you let me know the ID. It isn't as transparent as the tube you are using but it may still be able to indicate the level.

    Alternatively there are some electronic sensors that would do the job but they aren't likely to be cheap such as:-

    http://www.gemssensors.com/CustomerS...ns/225480.ashx

    They are specified for Hydraulic fluid reservoirs and would just need a threaded boss welded on the side of the tank.

    Denis

    If you take something to bits often enough, eventually you'll have two of them......


    GD427E039

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Southwater, West Sussex
    Age
    43
    Posts
    10,021
    Quote Originally Posted by kitcarsareus View Post
    Very Nice Craig

    What injection system is that ?

    cheers
    Cheers, It was a TWM injection set but now made by a company called Borla. Welcome to Borla� Induction

    It's all controlled by an Accel DFI thruster ECU and dual sync distributor allowing me to change the fuel and ignition maps just by plugging in a laptop. Good fun once you understand what the various parameters change in the software and I would say it's easier than tuning a carb but some may disagree.

    Once the car is back on the road next year, year after maybe I intend to have a rolling road session to make sure I'm not running dangerously lean or too advanced on the timing or something.

    Craig.

    Built a Dax once, Long time ago, painted it blue, original huh...?

    http://www.cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/ppuser/714/username/craggle

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,683
    Craig

    Definitely a top shelf catalog for sure

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

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