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  1. #3021
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Oldham
    Posts
    19
    Broke my knob off..........................gear knob that is

  2. #3022
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    845
    Quote Originally Posted by simon_f View Post
    Broke my knob off..........................gear knob that is
    Lucky it was your gear Knob only!

    Work done.

    1.Engine oil
    2.Coolant flush and fluid changed ( rad to be replaced winter project)
    3.Diff oil LSD changed ( that stuff sinks to hell and the filler is such a pain to get to)
    4 Exhaust header gasket hand made out of aluminum gasket sheet as the cardboard sheet ones end up blowing out. I spent some time matching and well pleased with the fit.

    Was hoping to do gear box oil also but the filler 1/2 inch square plug was stuck so another day.Might have to drop the under exhaust drill an inspection hole in the centre tunnel. As filling will be a pain once I get the plug out of my box( gear box before any comments)

  3. #3023
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Age
    51
    Posts
    338
    Removed the dash as was hunting down an indicator fault (turned out it was an indicator alarm in the boot!). Whilst the dash was off I reset the loose warning lamps with some bonding and added another for the coolant level. Then decided to play with the gauges so removed the clock which was useless and ordered a matching oil temperature gauge and sender. Wiring installed ready for fitting.

    IMG_8687.JPG

  4. #3024
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Age
    51
    Posts
    338
    Well looks like you are all out driving your Cobra's - mine still needs an MOT!

    So whilst I was waiting and had the dash off I have fitted some footwell courtesy lights - may be actually required when the hard top gets fitted. Also finally wired in the switch to change the maps on the FAST ECU. Not sure why as I currenrly only have 1 map .

    I found out why the fuel gauge was no longer working (it was before I took it out!). Turns out the voltage regulator had failed - fortunately there was another behind the dash that was not being used which was working so problem solved. Also added the Spiyda gauge calibration wizard as the gauge never went below a 1/4 even when empty - now just need to work out how to calibrate!

    Also I finally got round to fitting the bonnet scoop mesh which had been on a shelf for almost 5 years - nothing happens quickly in the world of Cobra's .

    MOT next....

  5. #3025
    image3.jpegimage2.jpegimage1.jpegimage4.jpegimage3.jpegimage2.jpegimage1.jpegimage4.jpegEngine bay cladding in and completed, brake servo and booster installed along with peddle box and clutch assembly..... engine to install tomorrow

  6. #3026
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    814
    I did a clutch change a while back and everything worked very well. Now that I have a few miles on it, I find it won't go into First once everything warms up... say after 1/2 hour of driving.

    I think I have it figured out, and it's back to working.... for now.

    There's a number of factors affecting the difficulty of shifting when hot:

    1/ Insufficient clutch fork throw. The hydraulics were designed for a 3-finger Long style Pressure Plate and I switched to a Diaphragm type. The throw is longer (odd, as I didn't think that would be the case.) and the max throw at the slave cylinder barely makes it. Also, the pedal must be pushed a LONG way to dis-engage the clutch.

    2/ There was some air in the system. I did bleed it... a number of times. But finally I got help with someone to push the pedal while I loosened and tightened the slave bleed screw. I got a little bit more throw at the slave cylinder due to this.

    3/ Heat causes both the clutch disc and P-P ring to expand a bit, causing the P-P fingers to drop and therefore more free-play is present and the pedal is pushed down further before the clutch starts to disengage. It can't make it to complete disengagement due to this.

    So, after a lot of bleeding and minimization of free-play at the clutch fork, I managed to get it to work even when hot.

    My next step will be to change out the master cylinder from a 3/4" bore to a 7/8" bore. That will give me more throw at the slave cylinder. I don't want to over-extend the diaphragm spring, so I may need to add a pedal stop. I'll know once I get this done.

    My only issue now is room for the new slave. I know a Tilton 74 series will work as other people have tried it with the same/similar car, but I'm worried about clearance. It's typical to shave a bit off the clutch fork for this. So I'm looking at the much shorter Tilton 75 series. My only concern is the Master Cylinder internal spring which brings the clutch pedal up the last part of the way. I've contacted Tilton about this and expect a response early next week.

    The increased M-C bore will give me about 36% increase in throw as well as the same increase in pedal effort. But it's an easy push now so I'm not worried about that. The stroke increase ought to be about a 1/4 of an inch.
    John

    “A prudent person profits from personal experience, a wise one from the experience of others.”

  7. #3027

    engine installed


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