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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Reading
    Posts
    213

    Hand Brake adjustment

    Hi Guy's,

    I have a 2002 DAX Cobra and need to adjust the Handbrake, put the car up on ramps the other day, went to get out the car and it rolled off the ramps, very lucky nothing was behind the car.

    I would imagine this will be quite a simple task once the car s jacked up ?

    Thanks in advance of any feedback

    Best Regards

    Rich

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Buckshaw Village
    Posts
    542
    De-deon or older IRS chassis?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Reading
    Posts
    213
    Hi Dobbo,

    It is an IRS Chassis.

    Regards

    Rich

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Shepton Mallet,Somerset
    Age
    51
    Posts
    1,621
    Welcome to the world of Jag rear brakes!!!!!!!!
    This is how I did mine.
    Slackended off handbrake cable. Get under the car, look at the handbrake callipers. You will see a big bolt with a flat head type head for use with a large screw driver. Remove the little split pin, now tighten up this bolt until the brake disk doesnt move. Then back off a tiny bit enough to get the split pin back in and the wheel moves. Then adjust the handbrake back up. Providing the self adjuster is working ok, that should be enough. That is until you forget its on and drive away with it, then you'll have to do it all again. I had some squeaking with mine, I took the shoes out and filed a small chamfer, that sorted it. Expect to have to adjust a few times, in my experiance they are not fit and forget!!

    Mark
    DAX with 4.6 RV8 re-built in 2014 using all new bits.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Reading
    Posts
    213

    Hand Brake Adjustment

    Quote Originally Posted by Dixie View Post
    Welcome to the world of Jag rear brakes!!!!!!!!
    This is how I did mine.
    Slackended off handbrake cable. Get under the car, look at the handbrake callipers. You will see a big bolt with a flat head type head for use with a large screw driver. Remove the little split pin, now tighten up this bolt until the brake disk doesnt move. Then back off a tiny bit enough to get the split pin back in and the wheel moves. Then adjust the handbrake back up. Providing the self adjuster is working ok, that should be enough. That is until you forget its on and drive away with it, then you'll have to do it all again. I had some squeaking with mine, I took the shoes out and filed a small chamfer, that sorted it. Expect to have to adjust a few times, in my experiance they are not fit and forget!!

    Mark
    Hi Mark,

    Spot on, just what I needed certainly a job for this weekend

    Have a good Easter

    Regards

    Rich

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chilwell Nottingham (the nice bit)
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by RichP View Post
    Hi Mark,

    Spot on, just what I needed certainly a job for this weekend

    Have a good Easter

    Regards

    Rich
    You will need all 4 days of it!
    1985 DAX 427, BMW Black, no scoop, no brightwork, no carpets. 15" Revolution split rims, BFG boots, 3.9 Rover V8 ex Disco 9.35:1 with 4.6 heads, Hurricane cam, Modified SUs and other P6 bits and bobs. SS headers & side pipes, Jag/Jag uprated lowered springs, GAZ shocks, Red Dot discs & pads, Toyota Supra CR high 5th box & special clutch.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    61
    Posts
    9,914
    It's not that bad it's just awkward.
    Also check that you haven't lost a handbrake pad.
    That's quite common too.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible FOR SALE
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tavistock, Devon
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,329
    I am really glad I have a pit in my garage!! Best thing I ever did when I got my garage built in 1982/3.
    Cheers,
    Murray


    That's the trouble with you Sailors, long hair, quick zips and, Oohh, look at the size of that!!

    If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chilwell Nottingham (the nice bit)
    Posts
    511
    Did mine this weekend, took me about 3 hours. Jacked up the back, blocked it and removed both wheels. You can then just see the end of the slotted screw with the split pin at the side of the chassis rail. The hardest bit is getting the split pin out, especially if you have fitted it from the top down like I had. It helps if you remove the rear shock absorber and spring, before attempting to attack the caliper. With the pin removed, it's just a case of tightening the screw until the brakes lock and then backing it off to the next point where you can get the pin in. When putting the pin back, stick it in from the bottom up and lather the head of the slotted screw in grease. You will need double jointed fingers and a torch, but it's all possible. In reality, once this is done, you should never have to touch the hand brake again.....why would the pads wear if you are only applying the hand brake with the vehicle static?
    1985 DAX 427, BMW Black, no scoop, no brightwork, no carpets. 15" Revolution split rims, BFG boots, 3.9 Rover V8 ex Disco 9.35:1 with 4.6 heads, Hurricane cam, Modified SUs and other P6 bits and bobs. SS headers & side pipes, Jag/Jag uprated lowered springs, GAZ shocks, Red Dot discs & pads, Toyota Supra CR high 5th box & special clutch.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Reading
    Posts
    213

    Adjusting Hand Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by 427scr View Post
    Did mine this weekend, took me about 3 hours. Jacked up the back, blocked it and removed both wheels. You can then just see the end of the slotted screw with the split pin at the side of the chassis rail. The hardest bit is getting the split pin out, especially if you have fitted it from the top down like I had. It helps if you remove the rear shock absorber and spring, before attempting to attack the caliper. With the pin removed, it's just a case of tightening the screw until the brakes lock and then backing it off to the next point where you can get the pin in. When putting the pin back, stick it in from the bottom up and lather the head of the slotted screw in grease. You will need double jointed fingers and a torch, but it's all possible. In reality, once this is done, you should never have to touch the hand brake again.....why would the pads wear if you are only applying the hand brake with the vehicle static?
    Hi 427scr,

    Thanks for the great description of how to make the adjustment, I still have this this to do, can you confirm what takes up most of the three hours, is it struggling to remove the Pin ?

    Regards

    Rich

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