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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    .Poole
    Posts
    1,019
    Mark, double check all the linkage is moving properly and damage free, ensure the shifter rods are all correct and bent as should be, all new bushes in linkage? And was the bell housing dialled in when fitted? As things warm up dynamics change, it may be the clutch plate and after it wears a little may settle down, basically double check everything even after checking previously, hopefully it's a simple fix, wish I was in a position to tinker! Lying in my hospital bed a few hours after total hip replacement. Dave

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    What shifter are you using?
    I've got a Hurst and I had a similar problem when it was hot. It turned out that the linkage simply needed a drop of oil to return it to its previous slick shifting form.

    Paul

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    Lying in my hospital bed a few hours after total hip replacement. Dave
    I hope you make a full and speedy recovery Dave.

    Paul

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Horsham, West Sussex, UK.
    Age
    60
    Posts
    195
    When you say the clutch arm has been adjusted to the max, do you mean that the pivot ball on which the clutch arm attaches inside the bell housing has been adjusted? I've a Repower bell housing and the ball can be screwed in or out to provide adjustment. It may be that's what you were referring to but if not may be worth a look if it is a clutch problem causing the gear selection problem.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    .Poole
    Posts
    1,019
    Thanks Paul, appreciate that. Dave

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    camberley
    Posts
    17
    Thanks for all the input guys, and hope you feel better soon dave. Heres a bit more info on the car set up etc. the clutch is a new McLeod 500 series street/ strip plate with McLeod clutch cover, it is linked to a ford 302 (tweaked a bit) and a top loader gearbox. The gear box has the standard shifter on it and has been aligned properly and greased etc. the slave cylinder is a new heavy duty one from repower and cost £190! The more I'm reading of your comments it does feel like the clutch isn't disengaging enough when hot? But looking under the car, when the clutch is fully depressed the clutch arm is touching the back of the bell housing, but it feels like it needs to travel further to fully dis engage the clutch?is this because the bell housing isn't properly aligned - if so how do I do it as I thought that you just bolt it on ? Or does some of the back of the opening to the bell housing where the clutch arm goes thro need grinding out because the McLeod clutch needs more travel? Let me know thanks

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Lutterworth
    Posts
    3,388
    Is the pivot point for the clutch arm adjustable? If so, back off the pushrod a little and take up the slack using the pivot point adjustment. That may give you a little more travel.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    camberley
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
    Is the pivot point for the clutch arm adjustable? If so, back off the pushrod a little and take up the slack using the pivot point adjustment. That may give you a little more travel.
    Hi -there is no pivot point adjustment unfortunately , it's just the arm sticking out of the bell housing

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Devon
    Posts
    281
    I had to cut and weld the fork to get the angle I wanted for my 302 with McLeod clutch, I think I took a couple of mill off the rear bell housing opening as well. I'm using a wilwood pull slave which I think gives a bit more travel.

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