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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Xj6 rear brake disc to half shaft bolts?

    Hi all,

    I'm in the process of stripping down a quite rusty xj6 donor for my GD mk4 build.

    I've just had the pleasure of rounding a nut off that holds the half shaft to the disc (typically it's the last one on that side)

    It looks like it's a bolt that runs through the drive plate, disc and the half shaft drive plate. Is this right?

    If so I'm assuming that if all else fails I can cut the bolt off?

    Any info or suggestions would be great?

    Thanks
    Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
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    477
    Hi Greg,

    Your donor sounds like mine; with inboard disks. The threads on those bolts were shot on mine, so I replavced the lot.

    If you choose cut the bolt, a replacement will need to be pressed into the output shaft flange. You'll need to remove the caliper mounting flange from the diff' to do this. Of course, if you're getting the diff' refurbed anyway...

    Or a nut splitter might do the job:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Broken-D...cAAOSwgQ9VvHS8

    Others with more expertise/ experience may have better suggestions!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
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    Why not take an angle grinder to the nut and grind through it just short of reaching the thread and then with a suitable spanner it will normally split and come undone.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  4. #4
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    May 2012
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    Cheers String, Tinka,

    I was hoping that the bolts were replaceable just in case. I'm happier at having a go at cutting the nut off knowing that they are.

    I'm pretty sure there isn't room to get a nut splitter in as I could only just get the socket to seat properly so cutting it off I think is my only option.

    Thanks
    Greg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
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    61
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    9,945
    The bolts and "special" nuts are available from most of the decent jaguar parts suppliers.
    SG Barratt, David Manners etc.
    Don't use nylocs they'll melt with the heat from the brakes.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible FOR SALE
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Birmingham
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    353
    Quote Originally Posted by austin21 View Post
    I was hoping that the bolts were replaceable just in case
    They are but you'll need to remove and totally rebuild the output shaft assemblies to do it. You can't get the new bolts in past the mounting flange without getting them apart. The bolts are also about 4.50 each and fyi there are two different types depending on age of the diff (well 3 if you include XJ40).

  7. #7
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    Cheers Kev, Russell,

    Thankfully I know not to use standard nylocs near anything hot. We use locking Kayar nuts at work for these applications.

    Regarding the diff output assemblies would these need to be removed during a diff refurb? Once I've got it all apart I may need to have a chat with you @russell_ram2 to look at doing refurb job (its 3.31 non powerlock diff)

    Cheers
    Greg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Chester
    Posts
    622
    the output shafts are normally the areas that get a rebuild when you strip the difference and you do need to speerage the shats to chang the bolts. A straight forward job if you follow the service tip but you do need to count the compression turns or buy yourself a nut ring of an unusual size to be able to torque the crush washer down properly. To memory, the nut-ring cost me about £80 and it only fits this one job.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    353
    Hi Greg,

    Yes, they are they first bits to come apart. I replace oil seal, bearings, crush sleeve and lock tab along with all 4 flange bolts all with new as standard - false economy not to. Plenty of other bits inside the main unit that get replaced as well.

    Russ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth
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    53
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    1,681
    Greg,
    Another option might be to hammer on a smaller socket and use an impact wrench to try and loosen off the nut?

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

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